.M 



:3tii Congress, ) HOUSE OF REPRESENTATIVES. ( Ex. Doc. 
1st Session. ) \ No. 45. 



F 594 
.F53 
Copy 1 



..i.su^x±j.Kji^ OF CAPTAIN FISK TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 



LETTER 

FROM 

THE SECRETARY OF ¥AR 



IN ANSWER TO 



resolution of the House of February 26, transmitting report of Captain 
Fisk of his late expedition to the Rocky mountains and Idaho. 



March 3, 1864. — Laid on the table and ordered to be printed. 



War Department, 

Washington City, March 2, 1864. 

Sir : lu compliance with the resolution of the House of Representatives dated 
February 26, 1864, I have the honor to transmit herewith a copy of the report 
of Captain J. L. Fisk, assistant quartermaster, of his late expedition to the 
Rocky mountains and the gold fields of Idaho. 

I am, sir, very respectfully, your obedient servant, 

EDWIN M. STANTON, 

Secretary of War. 
Hon. Schuyler Colfax, 

Speaker of the House of Representatives, 



St. Paul, Minnesota, January 28, 1864. 

Dear General : Herewith you will find my report of the second overland ex- 
pedition placed under my charge, and which is respectfully submitted to your 
consideration. I shall in a feAv days report in person. 

With respect, I have the honor to be yours, very truly, 

JAMES L. FISK, 
Captain, Assistant Quartermaster, Coyyimanding, 
General L. Thomas, 

AfJjutant General U. S. A., Washington, D. C. 

Official copy. W. A. NICHOLS, 

Assistant Adjutant General, 



'Fj^^ 



EXPEDITION OF CAPT. FISK TO THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS, 



Itincrai-y of route from Fort Benton to Bannock Cily. 
Places. Distance — Mileg. 

Big Coule 15 

Lake or pond 83 

Sun river - - 17 

Sun River crossing ^ 7 

Bird Tail rock 17 

Dearborn river 17 

Little Prickly Pear 12 

Little Prickly Pear crossing 8 

Medicine rock 7 

Little Prickly Pear, (Morgan's) 3 

Silver creek 16 

Prickly Pear - - G 

Summit of Rocky mountains 4 

Nintli crossing Blackfoot river 13 

Livingstone creek 8 

Deer Lodge river — Cottonwood City 9 

Race Track creek 8 

Warm Spring creek 8 J 

Second crossing Deer Lodge river 4 

Last crossing Deer Lodge river - > - - 9 

" Divide" creek 12 

Last crossing " Divide" creek 9 

Big Hole River crossing 18 

Birch creek 9 

Rattlesnake river 13 

Bannock City 16 

Official copy. 

W. A. NICHOLS, 
Assistant Adjutant General. 



NORTH OVERLAND EXPEDITION, FOR PROTECTION OF EMIGRANTS, FROM 
ST. CLOUD, MINNESOTA, VIA FORTS ABERCROMBIE AND BENTON, TO 
THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, IDAHO, &c.— 1863. 

Report of Captain James h. Fisk, assistant quartermaster, commanding. 

Sir : In accordance with instructions from the Secretary of War, I proceeded 
in May last to St. Paul, to organize an escort for emigrants from Fort Abcr- 
crombie to Fort Benton, and the mountainous country beyond. 

I selected St. Cloud as the rendezvous for the emigrant train, considering that 
place, in view of the Sioux troubles, to be the most safe and convenient point 
for assembling. Appointed June 15 as the date of departure from St. Cloud, 
and accordingly on that day started the train, arriving at Fort Ripley on the 
evening of the 19th of June. Remained at Fort Ripley until the 25th June, 
waiting for emigrants that I had heard were on the road. From Colonel Rogers, 
commanding the post, I procured some additional transpoi-tation, commissary 
stores, &c., requisite, and also a 12-pounder howitzer with ammunition. 

We were joined at this place by Slessrs. Major, Hesse and Hannay, of Wash- 
ington. These gentlemen were commended to my protection by the Secretary 

SEP 9 1909 
I. SF li 



EXPEDITION OF CAPT. FISK TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 6 

of War, and were to form part of an expedition for the survey of a portion of 
the Oregon boundary. 

While remaining in camp here I daily exercised the mounted guard in the sim- 
pler cavalry manoeuvres. 

On June 25 we broke camp. Previous to starting, I crossed the river to the 
fort, with my assistants and the guard, to salute and take leave of Colonel 
Rogers and the garrison, after which the guard rejoined the train, which then 
moved on. Passed the Indian agency at Crow Wing on June 27, camping on 
Crow Wing river, and remained in camp Sunday, June 28. Mr. Morrill, Indian 
agent at Crow Wing, visited our camp this day, and I assembled the emigrants 
and guard and read to them the rules and regulations of the camp. 

Reached Wadina crossing of Crow Wing river July 1, having been much 
delayed by repairing bridges, &c. Remained in camp at Wadina crossing until 
July 5, waiting for Major, jr., and Colonel Jones, of the Oregon surveying 
party. These gentlemen not arriving, I started the train July 6. The bridges 
on the road from Wadina crossing to Otter Tail lake were all broken, and the 
necessary repairs considerably retarded the progress of the train. 

Juli/ 8. — We passed Otter Tail City at noon of July 8, and found the city 
entirely deserted on account of the Indian massacre of last year. A few Chip- 
pewa Indians were prowling around. Our camp this evening was on Otter Tail 
lake. The country around the lake is very fine rolling land, covered with short 
sweet grass, and sufficiently wooded, the trees growing in park-like clumps. 
This section seems admirably adapted for stock-raising, and is probably not 
surpassed in the State. 

Juli/ 9. — Passed a chain of beautiful lakes — Wood lake, Battle lake, &;c. — 
camping at night on Long lake. The water of these lakes is excellent, and the 
scenery of their shores and surroundings is magnificent. The country, like that 
near Otter Tail lake, is in regular rolls or hills, with good grazing, and groves 
of noble trees. 

Juli/ 10. — Our I'oad lay through a thick wood of oak, elm, bass-wood, &c., 
some of the trees being very large. The latter part of the day this forest was 
on fire on either side of the narrow road, and the train had some difficulty in 
passing, on account of the fallen trees and excessive heat. On emerging into 
the open country we discovered that the prairie was on fire for many miles. 
All the grass was burned, and we had to push on until evening. Camping on 
Bass lake, we found good water and plenty of feed and wood. 

Jul?/ 11. — Travelled over a beautiful rolling prairie to Dayton, (AVausietta,) 
where we nooned. Here we saw further results of the Sioux massacre. The 
place was deserted, and had been burned. The bodies of Mr. Smith and others, 
murdered by the Sioux, are buried here. The scene was most melancholy. A 
dismantled mill, broken wagons, farm implements, and scattered ashes, were all 
that remained of the once thriving little settlement. We camped at night on the 
old crossing of the Otter Tail river, Avhere Ave met a mounted escort to bearers 
of despatches from Ceneral Sibley's expedition. 

Juli/ 12. — When the cavalry escort on the other side of the river started, a 
stampede of our horses took place, delaying us about two hours. The road this 
day passed over an elevated, level prairie, and Ave camped in the evening on the 
Red River of the North, four miles below Breckinridge, which place was also 
deserted. 

July 13.— Travelled over a level prairie until noon, and halted one and a half 
mile from Fort Abercrombie. In the afternoon we passed the fort, and camped 
on the Wild Rice river, four miles out. The bed of the river was dry at the 
crossing, (where we built a bridge the year before,) and Ave Avere only able to get 
poor Avater from a small pool loAver down the stream. The grass was also rather 
scanty, OAving to the extreme dryness of the season. There was, hoAvcA-er, plenty 
of wood. 



EXPEDITION OF CAPT. FISK TO THE KOCKY MOUNTAINS. 



FORT ABERCROMBIE COMMANDANT ORDER OF MARCH, ETC. 

Wc observed to-day small pieces of shale on the prairie, before reaching Fort 
Abercrombie. 

Juhj 14. — Remained in camp all day. This camp we named in honor of 
Major Camp, commanding the post at Fort Abercrombie. Obtained to-day some 
necessary qnartermaster and commissary stores, repaired wagons, and shod the 
horses and mules. In the evening I assembled the guard and emigrants, and 
addressed them as to the order of march. The wagons were to be kept closed 
np, the van and rear guards in their places, and the flankers out two to three 
miles on either side. The scouts were to ride ten to fifteen miles ahead of the 
train each day. I alsn cautioned them as to vigilance each night. We should 
form a " corral" in the evening on camping ; the tents pitched outside the 
wagons ; the cattle secured inside the corral, and the horses to be picketed out- 
side, and near the tents. I also stated that there would be a password after 
dark, without which no one would be allowed to leave or enter the camp. The 
guards would have their arms loaded, and would fire on any person not answering 
the challenge. All lights and fires were to be put out at " taps," and every man 
was to sleep with loaded arms beside him. I advised the emigrants to help one 
another on the march, and abide by the rules for the safety and comfort of the 
Avhole party. The bugle, the drum, and the flag were our means of signals and 
calls, used in communicating with scouts, flankers, and train guards, for rallying, 
halting, marching, corralling, &c., &c. 

OFFICERS OP EXPEDITION. 

We thus completed all arrangements for the journey. Both emigrants and 
guard showed the gi-catest readiness to comply with the regulations. My ofiicers 
Avere : George Dart, first assistant ; S. H. Johnston, second assistant and jour- 
nalist; William D. Dibb, M. D , physician and surgeon ; George Northrup, wagon- 
master ; Antoine Frenier, Sioux interpreter ; and E,. D. Campbell, Chippewa in- 
terpreter. The guard consisted of fifty men. Our wagons were marked "U. S.," 
and numbered. 

CROSSING OP SHEYENNE, 

July 15. — Broke camp, passed the bend of Wild Rice river and Weed lake, 
and forded the Sheyenne river without much difficidty, after grading its banks. 
The river was about forty feet wide, and the depth of water was from two to 
three feet. One stringer of last year's bridge still remained, the rest having 
been swept away by the winter flood. We camped at the edge of a small wood 
on the other side of the river. The feed was pretty good, and the wood and 
water plenty. 

July 16. — Travelled over a level prairie without wood or water, to Maple 
river, where we camped. Theie was but little water in the river this summer, 
the stream being from ten to fifteen feet wide, and one to two feet deep. We 
found sufilcient grass and wood here. 

GAME. 

July 17. — Before leaving camp this morning we loaded the wagons with three 
days' supply of wood, as there is none to be found between Maple river and the 
second crossing of the Sheyenne. AVe halted at noon on a small stream, a branch 
of Maple river, at about nine miles and three-quarters from our last camp. Near 
here the first buffalo was killed, by Antoine Frenier, our Sioux interpreter, from 
which we obtained a supply of fresh meat. In the afternoon we saw several 
small herds of buftaloes, and five bulls were killed by members of the train ; we 



EXPEDITION OF CAPT. FISK TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 5 

saw no cows in these herds. A herd of antelopes also passed ns at some distance 
off. Reaching the second ci'ossing of Maple river, we camped for the night. 
The country travelled over this day is a level prairie, very dry, but with pretty 
good grass. 

July 18. — Broke camp at 6i a. m. Rain falling; wind southwest. We passed 
over a low country of marshy pools, (all dry this season,) until noon. Antoine 
Frenier killed another buffalo near here, and we got the hump, tongue, liver, 
and other chosen parts. We camped at night on a hill, near a small lake, about 
eight miles from the Sheyenne river, with water and grass, but no wood. 

WOLVES. 

The wolves at night kept up a most dismal howling, one ambitious lupine 
always coming in with a liigh alto, some octaves above the rest. One of our 
party, known by the sobriquet of " Big White Turtle," (so named by the 
Chippewas from his size and complexion as seen when bathing,) made a good long- 
shot at one on a distant hill, causing him to hug the grass and stop his noise. 
The buffalo-wolf is very large, of a greyish dun color, with a dark back ; he 
follows the vast herds of buffaloes that roam the plains, and when one gets far 
separated from the rest, several wolves fasten on him, bring him down, aud soon 
despatch him. 

SHEYENNE RIVER, SECOND CROSSING. 

July 19. — The road to-day was over a rolling prairie to the second crossing of 
the Sheyenne river. The river here (this summer) is thirty to forty-five feet 
wide, with little water, and is easily forded. We passed some small lakes, of 
good watei", and after fording the Sheyenne, camped on the other side. We 
struck General Sibley's trail to-day. 

July 20. — Travelled over a rolling prairie, with small lakes and good feed, 
until noon. About five miles out we came upon one of General Sibley's in- 
trenched camps, of earthworks for cannon and rifle-pits connecting them. This 
camp was extensive, and laid out and constructed on scientific principles. We 
picked up yesterday two dilapidated mules, and to-day a horse that the birds 
had evidently roosted on for some days. A " black snake" (whip) brought him 
on his legs, and a little water and grass kept him there for the time. We hope 
to save him. Halted at noon on a small lake, fifteen miles and a half from the 
second crossing of the Sheyenne river. The road this afternoon lay over an 
ixndulating prairie, and we camped in the evening at another of General Sibley's 
intrenched camps, Avhich we found rather roomy for our small party. There 
was a small pool of water near, with grass, but no wood. We used water from 
Avells dug by the general's men. 

LAKES LYDIA AND JESSIE. MILITARY CAMP, DINNER WITH THE SOLDIERS, ETC. 

July 21. — Road over rolling prairie to Lakes Lydia and Jessie, where we 
camped at noon and remained to rest stock, &;c. The water of Lakes Lydia 
and Jessie (twin lakes "i is slightly saline, soda and magnesia prevailing. There 
is, however, a good spring three-quarters of a mile southwest of our camp, in a 
ravine on the shore of Lake Lydia. Shale crops out at tlu; edge of the lakes, 
and one of our party discovered coal on Lake Jessie. Both of these lakes are 
very beautiful ; they are surrounded by bold bluffs, well timbered. Our camping 
place was between the two lakes on a small eminence. In the wood at the 
back of camp we heard an incessant noise of birds, and we found the trees full 
of nests; it was a perfect rookery; there were cranes, ci'oavs, gulls, storks, shite- 
pokes, &c., &c., with plenty of ducks and geese on the lakes beyond. Some of 
our boys were soon at work securing a meal. Our scouts reported that there 



6 EXPEDITION OF CAPT. FISK TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 

was a large camp a mile or two to the south, which they supposed to be General 
Sibley's, and shortly afterwards several oificers belonging to General Sibley's 
expedition visited our little camp. From them we learned that part of the gene- 
ral's forces were camped on Lake Atchison. We found abundance of wild 
cherries in the thickets round camp, and one of our party discovered an arrow 
jiainted red on the top of the highest hill near. It was laid on a large flat 
stone, pointing south. Antoine Frenier described it to be a "medicine arrow" — 
an offering to the God of the Rock. Some of the party had a very pleasant 
swim in Lake Lydia; the water is delightful for bathing. 

Juhj 22. — Camp Lydia. — This camp we named in honor of j\L-s. Fisk. "VVe 
laid over to-day to recruit stock, &c. In the afternoon, by invitation, the offi- 
cers of our expedition and others dined at General Sibley's camp. We re- 
ceived a most cordial welcome from the officers and men of the expedition. We 
learned here that the general had gone south to the Coteau du Missouri, with 
some 2,200 of his forces, leaving the remainder in this camp, which was strongly 
fortified. General Sibley was in pursuit of the Sissiton Sioux, who, it is said, 
wished to surrender to him. 

July 23. — B]-oke camp at dh a. m. My little guard took their posts, and we 
started the train. Some of General Sibley's officers and men accompanied us a 
short distance this morning, and bade us all a hearty farewell, at the same time 
expressing great fears for our safety. They said we "must be either heroes or 
madmen." We crossed Stevens's great slough and passed Bartlett's spring, 
which is on the south side of the slough about 40 rods west of the crossing. 
The water of this spring is most delicious, and is almost as cold as ice- water. 
We filled our water casks here, as the water is slightly saline in most of the 
ponds between this place and James river. We halted at noon on a small al- 
most circular lake, Avhich we named Lake Dibb, in honor of our most excellent 
doctor. The water of the lake was a little salt. Grass good; no wood. In 
the afternoon we travelled over a rolling prairie, with many ponds and marshes, 
and camped in the evening near a small pool, with pretty good water and grass ; 
still no wood. 

July 24. — Road over a rolling prairie to Lake Townsend, (so named in honor 
of our worthy Assistant Adjutant General U. S.,) where we watered our ani- 
mals. Grass good. We passed a small dry stream, a branch of James river, and 
halted to feed near a small pond with pretty good water. In the afternoon we 
travelled over an undulating prairie to the Riviere a Jac[ues, or James river, 
where we camped. 

SOiME INDIANS. 

July 25. — Travelled over a fine level prairie until near noon, and halted at a 
small pool, with good water and excellent grass. The trail in the latter part of 
the day lay over an undulating prairie, and we camped at evening on Trinity 
lake, so called by us from being divided into three lakes of nearly equal size, 
and which are doubtless united in rainy seasons. Two of oixr scouts to-day saw 
six Sioux — five men and a squaw ; they were unarmed and apparently friendly. 
My men unfortunately neglected to bring these Indians into camp, or Ave might 
have obtained some information from them. We, however, learned subsequently 
from Red River Hunters, that there were twenty or thirty Sioux lodges to the 
south of us yesterday, but the Indians moved camp last night, hearing of our 
approach. 'Vha weather so f;ir has been cool and pleasant ; we have only had 
two or three hot days. We have found woollen clothes to be indispensable on 
the trip. It has rained the whole afternoon. Our camp to-night is an excellent 
one, and very easily defended, having lakes on two sides of it and a marsh on 
the third. Feed and water plenty ; no wood. 

July 26. — Passed many small ponds and marshes ; the country was rolling. 
Crossed Sheyenne river (third crossing) 1^ miles from camp. The bed of the 



EXPEDITIOX OF CAPT. FISK TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 7 

riTer Avas almost dry, only small pools of water remaining. The grass ou the 
route was good. lu the latter part of the day our road lay over a level plateau 
to the Butte de Morale, near which we camped on a small lake on the north 
side of the mount, 

DESERTERS. 

This day George Northrup, (sou of Aus. Northrup, of Minnesota,) wagon- 
master, George Geire (French Canadian, of Pembina,) and Richard Duncan 
Campbell, (half-breed of Pembina,) basely deserted the party, taking with them 
thi-ee valuable horses, a mule, their arms, carbines and revolvers, saddles, bridles, 
&c., all United States property. As they were in the rear, they were not sus- 
pected until evening, and it was then impossible to pursue them, as they had 
doubtless travelled fast, and we could not spare men or horses from our small 
party in the heart of the Sioux country. The execrations of the whole com- 
pany fallowed these men, as they had been most kindly treated. It rained 
slightly all day, with a cool wind from southwest. 

July 27. — Travelled over a more level prairie to Basswood island ; this is not, 
properly speaking, an island, but is a small tract of high land surrounded by 
low marsh country. This is a very good camp ; the grass is excellent ; there is 
fine water in a spring at the foot of the bluffs, with plenty of wood in the 
neighboring couliis. It is through this range of highlands, some fifty miles in 
length, that I discovered last year a beautiful and very level pass. We camped 
here at noon. Some of the boys chased, a small herd of buffaloes this afternoon 
within sight of the camp ; they wounded one of them, and he took to the middle 
of an adjoining lake, imagining himself perfectly safe with only his nose out of 
water. The boys blazed away, however, until he thought he had better come, 
where he was soon despatched. 

RED RIVER HUNTERS. 

Juhj 28. — Our road to-day was over a fine rolling prairie, passing a chain 
of lakes called White Wood lakes, which extend almost to the Mouse river. 
Our scouts discovered a large camp of Ked River Hunters, two or three miles 
to the south of our track. I determined to visit their camp, and accordingly 
rode over, with some of my assistants. The camp was large, and looked ex- 
ceedingly picturesque. The carts were formed into a circular corral, being 
placed side by side, with the hubs adjoining, forming an almost impassable bar- 
rier. Inside of this defence were pitched their skin tents, which are conical, 
with an opening at the top for the smoke to escape. All around the outside of 
this circle was a framework of stakes, which was covered with buffalo meat 
drying in the sun. The meat dries in this way, without salt, in about two days. 
These erections looked in the distance like a red wall around the camp. The 
hunters, about six hundred, were almost all absent, hunting the buffalo on the 
adjacent plains. We found only old men, women and children, in camp. The 
women were hard at work, cutting up meat, and chopping pemmican. In 
making pemmican they mince the meat and fat tolerably fine, put it in a buffalo 
hide, poiu- in boiling fat, and close it up ; it eats well, if prepared with care. 
They Avere also di-ying little cakes of wild cherries and berries, to eat with dried 
buffalo meat and pemmican. We saw some of the young girls seated on buffalo 
hides, which were stretched tight on frames, removing the fat, &c., from the 
skins with a sort of a knife or scraper. These women, mostly half-breeds, 
are many of them pretty, rosy-cheeked, bright-eyed, decently dressed, and 
modest in their manners. Everything around this camp looked neat. The people 
were polite, and evidently did not lack for anything. They had many oxen, cows, 
and ponies, feeding around. This party Avas from Pembina and vicinity. When 
at home they are farmers. They were now hunting for meat. In the fall they 



8 EXPEDITION OF CAPT. FISK TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 

hunt for robes, as the buffalo hides are then thick and well covered with hair, 
or fur. Most of these jieople were Roman Catholics, and were under the com- 
mand of their captain, Edward Harman. 

I gave aiithority, in writing, to Captain Harman, to take the horses, miiles, 
arms, &c., from Northrup, Geire, and Campbell, (deserters,) should he find theni 
at Pembina, where we suppose they have gone, Harman to have one-half the 
value of the stolen goods, and to forward the remainder to me at Saint Paul, 
Minnesota. The captain feels sanguine of catching them, and says he will take 
them, dead or alive. 

MORE INDIANS. 

In the course of conversation with the Red River Hunters, I learned that we 
had alarmed a small party of twenty Sioux yesterday ; they had fled in the 
night. The half-breeds also reported that over one thousand Sioux were one day's 
journey to the south of us ; they had visited their camp the previous day. We 
supposed these to be Sissiton Sioux, travelling towards the Missouri. 

July 29. — Passed over a hilly country, with small ponds, mostly dry. Near 
Wintering river we came upon a herd of several thousand buffaloes, and soon 
captured all that were needed by our party for the next twenty-four hours. 
Crossed Wintering river without difficulty, the bed being dry ; but it is difficult 
to ford this stream in a wet season, the bottom being miry, and the water usually 
from three to five feet in depth. The channel is hei-e two or three hundred feet 
in width. We camped in the evening on a small lake. Good Avater and feed. 
Three or four Red River voyageurs visited our camp this evening. One of 
their number struck up lively tunes on his violin ; our boys dancing " French 
Fours," and having a merry time. (These men were from the main camp men- 
tioned before.) We have with us several French Canadians, belonging to the 
guard, &c.; they are quite accustomed to prairie life, attend well to their duties, 
and are gay and light-hearted when the business of the day is over. 

Saw to-night a most beautiful halo round the moon ; thex*e were three circles, 
showing all the prismatic colors very vividly. 

MOUSE RIVER LARGE HERDS OF BUFFALOES, ETC. 

July 30. — Train journeyed over a very rolling prairie. In descending towards 
the Mouse river, we saw a splendid sight : the whole valley, as fixr as we could 
see, was covered with buffaloes, feeding, drinking at the lakes, or rolling and 
playing; there were probably upwards of ten thousand. As soon as our adA'ance 
guard and flankers came near them, there was a general stampede, and a most 
exciting chase. Almost the whole of the baffaloes starting off' in line, several Avere 
killed, and we had abundance of buffalo ribs, cooked in hunter fashion in the 
evening. 

We place the ribs, supported by bent stakes, on either side of a large fire, 
and so roast them ; they are delicious cooked in this Avay. The train passed 
in sight of herds of buffalo the whole of the day. There are numerous coules 
on this day's journey, running down to Mouse river ; most of them have timber, 
grass, and Avater. Our course avoids descending these coules, and is along 
the plateau at the head of them. We camped in the evening on the site of the 
"old camp" of 27th of July last year; it is a good camping ground, on the top 
of a high bluff. In the coule below is an excellent spring, and grass and timber 
are found along the sides of the A'alley. 

WRUriNG HOME. 

The captain of another Red RiA^er camp, Avith several followers, was brought in 
to-day. They will stay Avith us to-night, and take our letters toAvards home 
via Pembina to-morrow. 



EXPEDITION OF CAPT. FISK TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 9 

July 31. — Remained in camp to-day, to recruit the stock and repair wagons. 
Our camp is on higli ground, at the head of a coule running down to the Moiise 
river. This river is about five miles distant, and we are in sight of the Coteau 
du Missouri. This is a most excellent spot for camping for a few days. I this 
morning sent to Pembina, by the Red River Hunters previously mentioned, a 
short letter to General L.Thomas, Adjutant General United States army, giving 
an account of the progress of the expedition, as follows : 

"Camp Grant, near Head of Mouse River, 

''My 31, 1863. 

" General : I take the opportunity of the visit of a Red River Hunter to 
communicate to you the progress of the expedition from Fort Abercrombie to 
Fort Benton under my charge. Since leaving Fort Abercrombie our journey 
has been most satisfactory. Notwithstanding the extraordinary drought this 
season, we have not suffered so far from the want of either grass or Avater, 
proving, I think, the great superiority of this route to the Rocky mountains and 
Pacific country. Our party is in excellent health, and the cattle, horses, &c , 
are in fine condition. The expedition received no assistance whatever from 
General Sibley, and I started with a guard of fifty men to travel the Sioux 
country. Near Lake Jessie I found General Sibley's camp, and learned that 
the general had gone to the Coteau du Missouri with the bulk of his forces, in 
pursuit of a large band of Sioux, who, it is said, were wishing to surrender to 
him. The general had left about 1,500 men in camp, strongly intrenched and 
defended by cannon. I left there with my little band, passed within about 
eighteen miles of Devil's lake, and am now camped for the day near the head- 
waters of Mouse river, about two hundred and sixty-eight miles west of Fort Aber- 
crombie. We are almost through the hostile Sioux country, and I think that 
there is now little to apprehend, for the expedition. It is a source of great 
satisfaction to me that in this unparalleled season we should have found my old 
trail sa practicable. I Avrote you in detail from Fort Abercrombie as to my 
organization, embarrassments, &;c. 

" In haste, I have the honor to be your obedient servant, 

"JAMES L. FISK, Cajytain and A. Q. M., 
" Comd'g Northern Overland Expedition for Protection of Emigrants. 

" General L. Thomas, 

" Adjutant General United States Army, Washington, D. C." 

I paraded the guard in the afternoon, inspected arms, and afterwards made a 
few remarks to the men, thanking them for the cheerful alacrity with which 
they had obeyed all orders, and stating that we were almost through the Sioux 
hunting- gi'ounds ; that I now apprehended no danger from that nation, but that, 
of course, Ave could not relax our vigilance in any respect in passing through 
the Assiniboine, Gros Ventres, and Blackfoot country, for, if they feared to 
attack our party, their constant aim would be to steal our animals. The guard 
afterwards shot at a mark, with rifles and revolvers, for a prize. The voyageur 
who took our mail this morning Avas a Canadian, of middle age, and of excellent 
quiet manners. He spoke good French, and was most animated and even elo- 
quent in his description of the scenery of the Coteau du Missouri, Coteau du 
Nord, &;c. His dress, &c., Avill giA^e a good idea of the costume and appear- 
ance of the Red RiA'er Hunter. He wore a felt hat, with a gay Avreath ; a dark 
blvie coat, with a hood; drab leggins, fringed with scarlet and black cloth, with 
bead-Avork and gilt buttons on the outside; and moccasins embroidered with 
stained porcupine quills. To this, add a crimson sash around his waist ; cross- 
belts (for his shot-pouch and powder-horn) covered with beautiful Avork in 
colored beads ; a knife sheath and shot-pouch similarly ornamented ; a powder- 



10 EXPEDITION OF CAPT. FISK TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 

horn, with bright colored tassels and brass nails ; and a hunting knife and rifle. 
He rode a well-trained hunting Rob Roy pony, and had a buckskin saddle or 
pad, with elegant designs in colored beads; also, a blue broadcloth saddle cover, 
with red fringes, and decorated in the same way as the saddle. This descrip- 
tion will apply to most of these French-Canadian voyageurs. They combine, 
in their dress, the Indian and the Frenchman ; they are dashing buffalo hunters, 
frequently surrounding the herd and killing almost every animal. They are 
much feared by the Indians, from their courage and skill with the rifle, and as 
horsemen. The half-breeds have a great deal the same appearance and chai-ac- 
ter, with more or less of the Indian. The French-Canadian hunters live mainly 
by the chase, and in the intervals amuse themselves by horse-racing, playing on 
the violin, dancing, singing, &;c. They are a gay, light-hearted race, and are 
generally reliable, hard-working, enduring, and faithful employes. 

August 1. — Broke camp at 6.30 a. m. Our road to-day was over a high, 
level pi'airie, with coules on the right, running down to Mouse river, which 
stream was distant from five to seven miles, and the hills of the Coteau du Mis- 
souri, on the left, about seven to ten miles off. We halted at noon on a coiile, 
with a spring, good feed, and a little wood, and camped in the evening on the 
brow of a very deep coule, with no water. We, however, dug a well and got 
a supply of tolerable water by morning. Feed was good in the coule. In 
digging the well our men found coal, and further down the coule it cropped out 
on the face of the bluff. The seam was eighteen inches to two feet in thickness 
of fair bituminous coal; we tried it and it burned freely. We passed herds of 
buffalo all day ; probably 4!0,000 at least. Our table was plentifully supplied 
with meat — roast ribs and hump steaks, «&c., and now and then a feast of 
tongues. Our course to-morrow will be more towards the coteau. I sent Lieu- 
tenant Johnston and Antoiue Frenier on a short reconnoissance to the Mouse 
river this morning. They report that they found the river nearly full; it was 
from one hundred to one hundred and twenty feet in width, with apparently a 
depth of from six to seven feet. The banks of the stream were heavily wooded 
with oak, elm, ash, maple, &c., and were bordered on either side with beautiful 
green meadows. The buffalo was ranging through these pastures in countless 
herds. The view of the valley from the heights was enchanting. Mouse river 
is a fine stream, tributary to the Red River of the North, and is the most im- 
portant between the Mississippi and Missouri. It flows thi'ough a deep valley 
more than two hundred feet below the pi-airie level. This valley varies in 
width from one-half mile to two miles, and is very fertile, having a rich alluvial 
soil. Deep coules run up into the prairie for iifteen or twenty miles. There 
is abundance of good timber, and our exploring party was informed that there 
is coal along the river. This is a most eligible spot for farming, and I have no 
doubt that the whole valley will be settled in a few years. 

August 2. — Our course to-day was towards the Coteau du Missoim. The 
mirage this morning was most deceptive along the coteau; the resemblance to 
lakes of water was perfect; several of our party started to water their horses, 
and did not discover their mistake until they had ridden several miles. The 
small lakes which were so frequently foinid in the basins between the hills were 
covered with wild geese, ducks, and snipe; occasionally, too, we saw Avliite 
cranes, but these birds are very shy. Their plumage is of a snowy white, with 
black tips to the wing feathers ; these feathers the Indians value highly. 
Passed many herds of buffalo on our route. 

AN INCIDENT INlilANS' FIXINGS, ETC. 

Rather an amusing incident occurred to two of our party, Messrs. Johnston 
and Major. They rode down a coule leading to Mouse river, very narrow, with 
bluffs on either side from one hundred and fifty to two hundred feet in height. 



EXPEDITION OF CAPT. FISK TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 11 

The bottom was thickly wooded, with dense underbrush, and the buffalo path in 
the centre would only admit of one horseman at a time, and was completely 
shadowed with trees. These coules are a refuge for a few "grislies," and in 
passing along a very narrow path an immense black monster suddenly leaped 
out in front of Mr. Major's horse, which jumped round, Mr. Major calling out 
" grisly," and unslinging his carbine. It turned out, however, to be a big bull 
buffalo, who was asleep under the bush, and poked out his shaggy head on 
hearing them approach. Before the ponies could get over their fright the bull 
was up the heights. It would have been an awkward spot to have met a real 
" grisly." Whilst scouting in the afternoon. Lieutenant Johnston discovered a 
kind of scarecrow. It consisted of a large stake, about seven feet high, planted 
in the ground, having another stake across it like arms. The whole was covered 
with wolfskins, and the head of a wolf was on the top. On the wolf's head 
was a scarlet cloth cap, worked with beads, and above this a woollen cap with 
a metal chin-strap. On the arms of the figure were hung small arrows, tobacco, 
&c. Antoine Frenier states that this is a war sacrifice of the Sioux. We 
camped in the evening on a small lake, with water and grass pretty good. 

August 3. — Travelled over a high, level prairie, and camped in the evening 
near three lakes ; the water of one of them Avas good, the others were saline. 

W^e were passing herds of buffalo the whole morning; they stretched in every 
direction as far as the eye could reach, and a field glass showed other herds in 
the distance. The mountains of the cuteau were covered with them. They looked 
like swarms of flies. Certainly over one million were in sight during the day. 

We were much amused this evening in watching a weazel hunting ground- 
squirrels. He was a pretty active little fellow, as elastic as a snake, and seemed 
to take little notice of us. He dived down all the squirrel holes to see if any 
one was at home ; finally unearthed one, and there was a great race ; the squir- 
rel, however, doubled and got out of sight. The weazel's rage at losing his 
prey was most comical ; he turned a summersault in the air, whirled round, and 
performed all sorts of gymnastic feats. His sight did not seem to be very good; 
he hunted more by scent. 

We shot some hares to-day. One of our party got a bad fall hunting buffalo. 
His pony put her foot into a wolf hole, while going at full gallop, and threw 
him on his head. He was, however, able to mount, and secured the buffalo that 
he was after. These fivlls are frequent, the ground being full of holes — badger, 
fox, wolf, &c. — nearly covered with grass. None of our party, however, have, 
so ftu-, been materially injured. We had another grand serenade of wolves to- 
night. 

August 4. — Our course to-day was a little nearer the hills of the Coteau du 
Missouri than last year, on account of the scarcity of water, the lakes at the 
foot of the bluffs generally having some water in them. The prairie was high 
and rolling. The Riviere des Lacs was about two miles to our right. We 
found the bed of it perfectly dry. This river is little more than a chain of 
lakes connected with each other in ordinary seasons. 

LEAVE THE OLD TRAIL. 

In the afternoon we left the " old trail," determining not to pass near Fort 
Union, as we did last trip. We camped in the evening near three small lakes, 
with water and grass. Mr. Major, with two barrels, killed twenty snipe this 
evening. They abound on these small lakes. 

August 5. — The train travelled through a part of the Coteau du Missouri, 
taking a westerly course. We passed towards noon a lofty hill, the highest of 
the range in that portion of the coteau ; it had served as a landmark all of the 
morning, which we named "Mount Frenier" in honor of our Sioux interpreter 
and chief scout, who shot a white crane here. We halted at noon near this 



12 EXPEDITION OF CAPT. FISK TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 

hill ; feed good, and several lakes around the mount. We observed round 
"Mount Frenier" the marks of an old Indian encampment; there were traces of 
some 300 lodges; they surrounded the base of the hill to the northwest. On the 
top of the mount was a pile of stones, serving as a cover for scouts. The circles 
of stones surrounding the lodges abound among the mountains of the coteaii. 
In some cases it is evident that these camps are very old, as the stones are half 
buried. 

In the afternoon we passed out of the eoteau into the prairie, and took a 
northwesterly course. A point of the eoteau juts out here to the north, which 
we shall have to pass round to-morrow and then take a due west direction. 

August 6. — Our course until the afternoon was through the eoteau. We came 
out again on the praii'ie in a northwest direction, and camped on the site of our 
" old camp " of August 3 and 4, 1862, the train moving with tolerable ease throiigli 
the valleys of the eoteau. This is a good camp ; there is plenty of grass, and a 
cold spring (tasting slightly of sulphur) rises in an adjacent could. 

FRUIT, A MEDICINE LODGE, KTC. 

We gathered black currants, cherries, &c., in this coule. This little taste of 
fruit was of great service to the men. Near our camp were the remains of a 
large medicine lodge. The centre-pole was still standing, the bark being cut in 
zigzags; and wands, with part of the bark removed and the Avood colored red, 
were lying round. The lodge was about 25 feet in diameter, and round it were 
quite recent traces of about 30 tepees. 

August 7. — To-day we struck out into the prairie a little to the north of the 
eoteau, passing a good-sized lake a few miles to our right, and travelled over a 
tolerably level plain, camping at night on a coule, with jjoor grass and scarcity of 
water. We had, however, a supply of water with us sufficient for this evening 
and to-morrow morning. 

It is a good plan to invariably fill all spare casks with water before starting 
in the morning. 

AN INDIAN, WITH PROSPECTS OF MORE. 

August 8. — Road was over a rolling prairie, and our course was a little north 
of west to avoid a promontory of the Coteau du Missouri. About three miles 
from our morning's camp Messrs. Dibb and Johnston brought in an Indian, who 
proved to be one of "Broken Arm's" canoe band of the Assiniboines. He 
stated that there were 145 lodges of these Indians a few miles north of our 
trail, and that they Avould try and meet us when we camped in the evening. 

We halted at noon near a small stream, almost dry, a tributary of White 
Earth river, with pretty good feed. In the afternoon Ave travelled over a toler- 
ably level prairie. Our course was a little of south of Avest, and the Coteau du 
Missouri Avas on our left. We camped in the evening near a coule with a dry 
pool ; Ave, hoAvevcr, dug wells and got Avater for the stock and party. 

THEY COME — THE ASSINIBOINES. 

Towards sunset a large number of mounted Indians came in sight ; halted in 
line at a distance of 200 or 300 yards ; dismounted from their horses and Avaited 
to be iuA'ited into camp. I sent Antoine Frenier to learn Avho they Avere, and 
found on his return that it was the canoe band, Avith their chief, " Broken 
Arm," (Istowerahan,) the chief Avarrior, " Red Snow," (Waduta,) and " Drunken 
Bear," (JMatoitko,) chief of the " Young Children" band of Assiniboines. 



EXPEDITION OF CAPT. FISK TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 13 



THE COUNCIL. 

I requested "Broken Arm" to pay me a visit, at tlie same time inquiring 
whether any of the bad Indians Avere with him who were saucy List year. 
"Broken Arm" sent most of his men back to their lodges, and entered our camp 
with " Red Snow," " Drunken Bear," and about fifteen followers. I received 
the chiefs in my tent, s\n-rounded by my assistants; the leaders seated them- 
selves, their attendants sqviatting down outside. " Broken Arm," " Red Snow," 
and " Drunken Bear" showed me certificates (wrapped up in almost innumera- 
ble handkerchiefs, &c.,) from Indian agents and others, stating that they and 
their bands were good Indians ; had always been friends to white men, and de- 
served to be well treated by them. " Broken Arm" then stated that he wished 
to have a talk with me, and I assenting he proceeded, with much fluency and 
gesture, to speak substantially as follows, Antoine Frenier translating sentence 
by sentence : 

" Chief soldier, when I meet a white man on the plains I call him ' father,' 
because we get so many things from him that we cannot make ; we are as chil- 
dren to the white man. The white man gives us blankets and clothing, flour, 
coffee and sugar, guns, knives and axes. The ' Assiniboines' have never killed 
a white man, never robbed him of his horses or goods, and they claim that they 
ought to be treated better than those Indians who have been behaving so badly. 
Our country is a poor country; the land is not good ; it is not fit for the white 
man. My people have nothing but the buffalo, which gives them food, clothing, 
shelter, and fuel. 

" My grandfather was born on these plains, like the wolf; he owned this land, 
and he told me always to be a good friend to the white man. 1 have been so. 
I now claim this country. I and my band wish to live here, and not to be dis- 
turbed by the Avhite man. If the white man comes here, he will drive away the 
buffalo, and my people will starve and perish. 

" I want you, chief soldier, to tell the Great Father of all these things." 
I replied that I had already told the Great Father at Washington that the 
Assiniboines were friends of the white man. They need not be alarmed ; their 
laud would not be taken from them ; a road might be made through their coun- 
try to Fort Benton, but if they behaved well, they Avould find a friend in every 
white man. If they met white men on the plains, they should always go up 
to them, take them by the hand and treat them well, ishould they remain true 
to their treaties, and suffer by the white man's coming into their country, the 
Great Father would help them and give them his protection. 

I then told the chiefs of the number of soldiers that the Great Father had, 
numerous as the buffalo on the plains, or the leaves of the forest. 

" Broken Arm" said that that was true ; he had heard from Mrs. Culbertson 
(at Fort Union) of the number of our soldiers. He liked me, for I said what 
was true. He had found that I spoke the truth to him last year. 

He went on to say that he had heard that a great array Avas coming into their 
country, and would drive out all the Indians. 

In reply, I assured him that the Great Father would destroy all bad Indians, 
but would be a good friend to those who treated the white man well, aud ob- 
served their treaties. 

" Broken Arm" produced a treaty made at Fort Laramie in 1851 with the 
Assiniboines, Rees, Crows, Blackfeet, Gross Ventres, &c., fixing their hunting- 
grounds and guaranteeing to them certain annuities if they kept its stipulations. 
I reminded "Broken Arm" that some of his band had been very insulting 
last year ; he must take care in future that they were not troublesome to white 
men. I had been told by the Great Father to be friendly to all friendly Indians, 
but a foe to all that were hostile. I had been pleased with all that I had heard 
from " Broken Arm," and should tell the Great Father how well his men had con- 



14 EXPEDITION OF CAPT. FISK TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 

ducted themselves on this occasion. At the same time I advised the chiefs to 
send one of their number to Washington; he would be well received, and it 
would be of service to the Assiniboines, now that the Sioux were such bad In- 
dians. 

In the conversation that followed the Indians stated that they remembered seeing 
me last year, and also our doctor, who, on that occasion, had given " Broken Arm" 
some snutt'for a headache. They wanted some more of that medicine ; it was very 
good. Tlie doctor handed round his snuft-box, and there Avas a general sternu- 
tation, amidst much laughter. It was amusing to watch the efforts of the Indians 
to maintain their gravity and imperturbability. The tears ran down their faces, 
and finally they were obliged to sneeze repeatedly, looking at one another after 
the explosion with the most sheepish air imaginable. The doctor gave them med- 
icine last year for their various disorders, and they call him "Pejutawishashita'* — 
the "Medicine Man." "Broken Arm" signified to me that they wished to form- 
ally give me the name that 1 acquired among them last year, wiien they 
wanted to turn back the train, and 1 told them that "a soldier never turns back." 
They baptized me " Ah-kichita-houka-na-mc-ne-she-ne" — " The ^liicf soldier 
that never turns hack" — each chief rising, taking my hand, and saying, "Ho! 
koda, Ah-kichita-houka-&c., welcome, friend chief soldier," etc. They have 
named Lieutenant Johnston, "Wa-to-pan" — "Canoe," — admitting him into their 
band, and promising him a good wife if he came back to spend tlie winter with 
them. " Broken Arm" afterwards stated that he remembered Governor Stevens 
very well, and that the governor had said that no more white men would be 
likely to come into this country. He also spoke of the murder of a white trader 
(whom he called " Yellow Coat,") by another white man, near Fort Kip, soon after 
we passed last summer. We have since ascertained that this was McKcnzie, shot 
by Clarke, of Sun river, in self-defence. " Broken Arm" told us that a large 
steamboat had gone up to Fort Benton. Some of this party recollected our 
Sioux interpreter, Antoine Frenier, although they had not seen him for nearly 
thirty years. I told the chiefs, in conclusion, that I would report to the Great 
Father at Washington all that they had said to me ; that they should stay with 
us that night, and not go away empty-handed in the morning. This last sen- 
tence elicited a loud and general "Ho!" — their exclamation signifying approval, 
greeting, and assent. The pipe went round before retiring to rest, and " Broken 
Arm" in the course of conversation told me that the road we were taking to 
Fort Benton Avas not good; there was very little grass, no water, and no buffa- 
loes. I should find the prairie burnt ahead of us. The road by the Missouri 
river was the best for the white man. I mentally resolved to keep my own 
course, as I have always found it best to do the exact reverse of what an Indian 
advised, under similar circumstances. 

August 9 — Sunday. — We remained in camp all day. Our guests breakfasted 
Avith us, and I afterwards shoAved them the effects of a shell from our hoAvitzer. 
The gun Avas considerably elevated, and the shell struck a distant mountain, ex- 
ploding and scattering fragments of rock around. The Indians Avere astonished; 
they endeavored to explain through Antoine their idea of a shell. They said 
that the big gun shot a little gun out of him, and that little gun Avent off of him- 
self Avhen he struck the mountain, doing much mischief. They did not like these 
big guns — " Shot too hard." Some of my boys shoAved them their breech-load- 
mg carbines, and Mr. Denslow (accompanying our party) exhibited a breech- 
loading rifle with seven charges in the stock. He fired these off, and asked 
them if he should shoot any more. They offered two ponies for this gun, seem- 
ing to think that it bred bullets, and that they could go on firing with it forcA'er. 
Dr. Dibb then gaA'e them medicine for their different complaints, with full direc- 
tions as to its use. I ordered some flour, coftee, sugar, tobacco, &c., to be issued 
to them, Avhich they distributed, and they shortl}^ after took their leave, having 
been told that this Avas a day of rest Avith us. The Assiniboines are an offshoot 



EXPEDITION OF CAPT. FISK TO THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 15 

of the Sioux nation. They speak the same language. Frenier tells me that 
only a few words are different. They got their name from burning a number of 
Chippewa prisoners (in 1812) on a rock; Assini boine, in the Chippewa lan- 
guage, meaning "burnt rock." These chiefs who visited me were neatly 
dressed and well-behaved. Their followers wore buffalo robes, leggiris and 
moccasins, and were mostly armed with old muskets or shot-guns. They all 
rode small ponies. 

August 10. — We travelled over prairie country, past small, diy pools, and in 
the afternoon entered a chain of mountains, (afterwards ascertained to be the 
Wood mountains,) and camped at night near a spring in the middle of a 
nearly dry pond. Good grass and water, but no wood. 

August 11. — Our road lay through the coteau, and the train moved with 
ease by following the valleys. We nooned on a small lake, with good water 
and feed. In the afternoon we passed several saline lakes, perfectly dry, and 
theiv beds covered with salt. The cattle were frequently deceived by the ap- 
pearance of these lakes. Seen in the distance, glittering in the sun, it was 
almost impossible to believe there was no water in them. The prairie was very 
dry. In the evening we camped near a spring, with water and grass. 

A MAN LOST AND FOUND. 

Mr. Joseph Hamel, one of the guards, had not reached camp at supper time. 
He was on the right flank, some three miles distant from the train, and we sup- 
posed that he had got ahead of us and missed finding the trail. We fired the 
howitzer several times, hoisted a light on the highest mound near us, and 
sounded bugle-calls, all without success. We concluded that, finding night 
coming on, he had camped, and would retrace his course to-morrow until he 
came on our trail. He would doubtless suffer considerably in the mountains, 
as he had with him no overcoat or blanket. 

August 12. — Mr. Hamel came into camp this morning before breakfast. He 
stated that he heard one of our guns last night, but as he was evidently several 
miles distant from us, and night had closed in, he thought he had better Avait 
for daylight. At daybreak he went back until he found our trail, and then 
came direct to camp. Started at seven o'clock a. m., and a few miles out came 
upon a chain of saline lakes, in which the water was dried out, leaving the beds 
covered with a glistening surface of encrusted salts. The resemblance to ice 
and snow was perfect ; near shore the substance being transparent like clear 
ice, and in the centre white, as if covered with snow. We actually felt cold in 
looking at these lakes. Halted at noon near a marsh, with good water and 
grass, and at evening camped on a good-sized lake, where the water was 
slightly saline and feed only fair. 

A NEW LANDMARK. 

About two miles to the north of this camping place there is a steep, high 
mountain, the sides precipitous, and the top a mere ridge. On the summit is 
the figure of an elk, eight to nine feet long, cut in the ground. The Assini- 
boines, we learned subsequently, call this mountain Harakao-weran, or " Where 
the elk feeds." We found some scoria at the base. Its form is volcanic. 
Standing at the top of this mountain, the salt-covered beds of the dry saline 
lakes below stretched to the north and west as for as the eye could reach, giv- 
ing a wonderful wintry aspect to the scene. This eminence is a landmark for 
many miles. It is not more than fifteen miles, I believe, from the British line. 
Our party voted unanimously to name it " Mount Fisk." 

August 13. — Having discovered a fine spring, with excellent grass around it, 
about half a mile up a ravine leading to the lake where we were camped, I 



IG EXPEDITION OF CAPT. FISK TO THE KOCKY MOUNTAINS. 

moved the train there this morning, and halted for the day to recruit stock and 
for repairs. While scouting, two or three miles to the north of Mount Fisk, 
Lieutenant Johnston discovered an Indian watching him from a height of land, 
and brought him in, when he proved to be an Assiniboine, of Whirlwind's band. 
He had with him three squaws — his two wives and his mother-in-law. He said 
that he had been hunting buffalo in the mountains to the north. 

WOOD MOUNTAINS. 

When asked how far the mountain range extended in that direction, he re- 
plied that there was "no end to it; he had been travelling it for two or three 
weeks." He was now going to join his band, which he believed was near Fort 
Union. He was carrying his dried buffiilo meat in "travaires" drawn by large 
Avolf-dogs. His household goods were on a lean and sore-backed pony. He 
was a poor-looking Indian, and could give little intelligence as to the country 
west of us. 

August 14. — We travelled to-day through the valleys. Towards noon the 
mountain scenery around us was truly grand. To the south, the mountains rose 
like a wall to a great height, and were of a dull-grey color. To the north, they 
were shaped into most fantastic forms ; there were old castles with lofty walls 
and moiddering turrets, and circular pavilions, and domes, spires, »&c. — nature 
looking like scenes of art in ruins. The north view, as a whole, had all the 
appearance of a great Moslem city, with countless minarets, domes, and spires. 
These rocks were mostly a soft sandstone, and had probably been worn into 
such quaint shapes by the action of wind and water. 

We wound our way through the valleys without incident, and camped in the 
evening in a large valley, on a stream that we supposed to be the heaxl of the 
Big Muddy. The grass was good, and there were excellent springs. We found 
wood in the coules near by. 

ANTELOPE CREEK. 

August 15. — Took a west course through the mountains. The eighhts were 
lofty, but we found a fair road through the valleys, and in the afternoon camped 
in a ravine, on a small stream running south, which we named "Antelope creek," 
from the herds of that animal seen near it. The bed was almost dry, but we 
found sufficient water, though slightly saline, remaining in pools. Large flocks 
of wild geese rose from these pools on our approach. The grazing doAvn the 
valley was pretty good ; no wood. 

I should mention that we discovered in the channel of this stream pieces of 
lignite, that seemed to have drifted down ; it burned well. 

August 16 — Sunday. — Remained in camp all day. 

August 17. — Our road through the valleys to-day was good. The mountains 
were high, but not so precipitous as in the last two days of travel. Our course 
is a little south of west. We halted at noon near a small pool, with an excellent 
spring close by. Camped in the evening on Porcupine river, which was here 
from fifteen to twenty feet in width, with a depth of water varying from three to 
five feet. 

The first sight of this little river, after our day's travel, was most refi/eshing. 
The full, clear stream was bordered by grass, green as an emerald, and thickly 
dotted with flowers — daisies, lilac and white, marigolds, &c. Our approach 
startled a herd of graceful antelopes who were drinking at the river ; they dis- 
appeared like a cloud shadow from the landscape. From the appeai-ance of the 
country, there must have been recent heavy showers in these mountains. 

August 18. — Started at seven a. m. Forded Porcupine river with great ease; 
the bottom being gravelly, and the water about three feet deep. We travelled 
over the hills this morning without difiicidty, course west-southwest, and halted 



EXPEDITION OF CAPT. FISK TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 17 

at noon on a small river. A short distance from onr camping place this stream 
divided into three forks, running from northAvest, Avest, and west-southwest. 
Grass and water excellent. The prairie was burnt between Porcupine river and 
where we nooned, but the fire had not extended beyond the above small stream. 

COAL. 

In the afternoon we followed the same course, and about seven miles from our 
uooning place, on the banks of a small river, discovered coal ; it was bituminous 
and burned well. The seam varied from ten to fifteen feet in thickness, cropped 
out on the face of the biuflF, and could be most readily worked. We camped in 
the evening in a valley on tlie banks of a small stream of pure running water. 
Good grass ; no wood. This is a noble valley, varying from one to two miles 
in width, with lofty mountains on either side. A clear stream runs through the 
centre, with excellent grazing on its banks. 

August 19. — Took a Avest course along the same valley, and halted at noon 
near a spring. In the afternoon we travelled about eight miles through the 
same valley, and then crossed or passed through the mountains, a little to the 
south of Avest, to a valley running almost parallel Avith the above, camping in the 
evening on a small river, about fifteen to tAA^enty feet Avide, and tAvo to three 
feet deep, Avith good grass. We saAv a few buffaloes to-day, and plenty of Avild 
geese. In the latter part of the day Ave crossed a large Indian trail going 
north. 

August 20. — Our road this morning was along the valley in Avhich A\^e camped 
last night. Our course was nearly Avest. We halted at noon near the head- 
waters of Porcupine river, Avitli excellent watei' and grass and timber in the 
adjacent coules. Not far from here we observed traces of a large Indian camp — 
about four hundred lodges — evidently left this spring. In the latter part of the 
day we descended from the elevated plateau on AA'hich Ave had been travelling 
for some time, and our road Avas over a rather rough country until the evening. 
We camped on a small stream almost dry. I killed a large buck antelope, at 
about two hundred and fifty yards, Avhich furnished our party with a good supper. 

August 21. — Train started at seA^en a. m., and moved through the mountains 
Avithout difiiculty. We struck the Little Porcupine river about thi-ee miles 
from our morning's camp, and camjied on the same stream at night, Avitli good 
feed and water. 

August 22. — We travelled through the mountains all the morning, and 
towards night passed down a long and narroAv coule to the banks of a large 
vStream, since ascertained to be Frenchman's fork of Milk river. The valley of 
this river is heavily timbered with cottonAvood, and the bottom covered Avith 
sage brush and poor grass. We found, however, sufficient picking for our cattle 
and horses. The bed of the river AA^as almost dry, but there was good water in 
the pools. The banks Avere high, and consisted of sand and whitish clay, 
easily washed doAvn. The stream, in some parts, had Avorn large holes in the 
bluffs, and there are very deep quicksands in the channel. This river varies in 
width from fifty to one hundred feet, and has the same general appearance as 
Milk river. It must be a perfect torrent in spring, as the bed is filled Avith large 
trees, and the AA^ater-marks on the mountains are very high. The scenery is 
most picturesque Avhere Ave struck the river; it is almost shut in by lofty bluffs, 
Avith immense boulders jutting out, and abounding in caverns; precipitous 
coulus descend to the valley, Avith small streams running doAvn them in cascades 
to the river. There are fine masses of cotton trees in the hollow. These trees 
often seem to have been planted artificially in clumps, and the general ap- 
pearance of the valley, as seen from the heights, is that of a park. We camped 
on the bank, and made a famous supper of a buffalo cow. The fat Avas three 
inches thick on the hump, and was as sweet as marroAV. This afternoon, Avhilst 

H. Ex. Doe. 45 2 



18 EXPEDITION OF CAPT. FISK TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 

moving through a large herd of buffiiloes, one of our dogs worried an old bull 
until he charged on the train, passing between two yoke of cattle, and snapping 
the chain in two. This caused somewhat of a "scare" among the teamsters, 
and some of our mule teams were inclined to run away. There is abundance of 
good dry wood near this evening's camp. I should note that the night was very 
cold, ice formed on some water in a pail to the thickness of one-half inch. 

Angust 23 — Sunday. — We remained in camp all day. Professor Hesse took 
an observation to-day, and found that we were in latitude 48° 46' 7". I rode 
out with Dr. Dibbs this morning to explore the country ahead of us, and to 
ascertain the best route for the train to Milk river, which I supposed to be about 
twenty miles distant. After riding nearly twenty miles in a southwest direction, 
we saw the Milk river winding through the valley below us, and the Little 
Rocky and Bear's Paw mountains in the distance. We discovered a practicable 
road for wagons, and returned to camp at sunset, having ridden between forty 
and fifty miles. There were some remarkable caves in and about this strange 
chasm. 

August 24. — Crossed Frenchman's fork, and ascended the heights to the south, 
working our way through the coules ; the road was rough, but I took a ioM 
pioneers ahead, and Avith a little grading in parts, removing large stones, &c., 
the train passed through without accident. We nooned near the river ; in the 
afternoon 1 ravelled over a rough, hilly country, and camped at night near the 
same stream, with tolerable grass, good spring, and plenty of cottonwood in a 
neighboring ravine. 

OLD LANDMARKS L\ SIGHT. 

Atigust 25. — The train crossed some rough hills this morning, but by a little 
grading we moved easily through the ravines. We came in sight of Milk river 
about eleven a. m., the Little Rocky and Bear's Paw mountains being just 
discernible, and resembling clouds on the edge of the horizon. My last year's 
party saAV these mountains for the first time on the afternoon of the same day, 
(August 25.) We descended to Milk river, crossed a few miles to the west of 
Frenchman's fork, and camped at noon a short distance up the stream. The 
river bed is here about one hundred and fifty feet wide, and is nearly dry. 
There is, however, tolerable water remaining in the pools. The grass is very 
poor. Plenty of wood ; fine groves of cotton trees running along the river 
banks. 

THE OLD TRAIL A MAN LOST, ETC. 

The plain around our camp was covered with prickly pears ; they were just 
ripe, and much resembled gooseberries ; we ate heartily of them. We noticed 
towards sunset that j\Ir. Major (one of our party) had not come into camp. He 
had started in the morning to walk on, and we supposed that he might have 
crossed Milk river to the west of us, and struck the " old trail," as two of our 
scouts who have just come in report that they have discovered last year's tracks 
about three miles further on, and that a train has recently travelled over them. 
Hence jMr. M;ijor may have thought that we were ahead of him, and have con- 
tinued his journey. I had our howitzer fired several times at sunset, to recall 
Mr. Major, but without avail. 

GROS VENTRES INDIANS IN CAMP. 

This evening, after sundown, thirteen Indians, on horseback, dashed through 
the woods opposite to us, crossed the river, and rode into camp, their gaily em- 
broidered robes, scarlet leggins and plumes, giving them a picturesque and 
martial appearance by the light of our camp fires. They turned out to be 
" Gros Ventres." AVe had no interpreter, but they made us understand by 



EXPEDITION OF CAPT. FISK TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 19 

signs that they had heard our guns, Avhere they were camped a few inilcf: ofi", 
on the other side of the river, and had come to stay with us until the morning. 
We gave them some supper, and they then sat in a circle, endeavoring to con- 
verse with us. Their language is tlie most extraordinary and uncouth that can 
be imagined. It is guttural, and seems to consist of a cough, a groan, a grunt, 
a, whistle, and a "tst tst." They never speak a syllable distinctly, but appear 
to arrest the half-formed words in their throats. Mr. Meldram (agent at Fort 
Union) has been many years among them, and cannot speak their language ;, 
he says he believes that it is almost impossible for a white man to learn it. The 
Sioux, on the contrary, pronounce every syllable slowly and distinctly ; it is 
easy to catch the sound. Their language is musical and sonorous. Our "Gros 
Ventres" guests passed round their long pipe filled with Kiunikinnick. The 
mixture that the mountain Indians smoke is one dialf tobacco and one-half '^uva 
wrsa,^' a small-leaved evergreen, of a pleasant smell and taste, and an astringent. 
It is found in the mountains. The chief of this band was, I believe, "Little 
Lame Buffalo," a large Indian, wearing a Scotch cap with a white skin by way 
of plume. These Indians were clean, tolerably well dressed, and rode pretty 
good ponies. They had two squaws with them. One of the " bucks" wore a 
buckskin hunting shirt, beautifully embroidered with bead work, and had his 
hair plaited in a long cue that hung down his back, and was fastened with a 
large and bright metal circlet. Three out of the eleven males, including the 
chief, were lame, and Dr. Dibbs says that the whole tribe are terribly diseased. 
Our guard at night kept the " redskins" in their circle, as we could see that 
they had a great love for horseflesh, and admired our American horses im- 
mensely. One of our "boys" offered them two plugs of tobacco for a saddle, 
which they refused. A little skinny Indian shortly afterwards went up to 
" Shorty's" mare, (a good one,) looked at her teeth, and smilingly offered her 
owner one plug of tobacco for her. " Shorty," I am afraid, used some rather 
strong language on the occasion. 

August 20. — Left camp at 7 a. m. I abandoned a large government wagon 
here, as the load, consisting of commissary stores, &;c., could now be easily 
packed in the other Avagons, and the mules were in rather poor condition. I 
explained to our "Gros Ventre" friends that they must not touch this wagon; 
that white men were coming for it. I do not believe they will disturb anything; 
they seemed to imderstand me. 

Struck the old "trail" about 2 J or 3 miles from camp, amidst much rejoicing, 
and took the same road as last year. The only thing that marred our pleasure 
was the continued absence of Mr. Major; he Avas thinly clad, had no blanket, 
and very little ammunition ; besides this, he is a man past the middle age, and 
the night was very cold. I this morning sent three scouts back to our yes- 
terday's camping place, two scouts along the high bluffs on the opposite side 
of Milk river, two through the bottom on the other bank of the river, two fol- 
lowing its course on this side, and two ahead of the "trail;" all had food and 
water for the missing man. 

THE iVlIS-SlXG FOUND. 

Halted at noon near a dry lake, 11 miles out, with no water or wood; 
grazing poor. In the afternoon we left the road, and travelled a little north of 
west, in search of grass and water. We found an excellent spring and good 
grass, six miles from where we moved, and camped for the night. 

Mr. M{)jor was brought into camp at half past 12 o'clock tiiis night, by the 
two scouts that we sent ahead on the road, Messrs. Johnston and Miller. They 
report that they rode sixteen miles from where we moved to the second cross- 
ing of Milk river. Soon after leaving us they observed in the sand fresh tracks 
crossing the road, which they identified as Mr. Major's; these tracks were not 



20 EXPEDITION OF CAPT. FISK TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 

seen again, however, on the wagon road, and the grass was so dry tliat it was 
impossible to follow the trail. 

On arriving at the " crossing" the scoixts, supposing' tliat Mr. M. must be 
somewhere back, near the trail, decided to return. After riding three or four 
miles, towards dusk, they suddenly came on a dark object lying on the ground 
near the road. It proved to be Mr. Major. His first cry was "water;" after 
giving him a canteen full of tea, they got him on one of their horses and took 
him back to near where we halted at noon, then they followed our new tracks 
and came towards camp. Meeting some of the other scouts, they sent two of 
them ahead, and I immediately despatched the flag-wagon with a supply of 
provisions and water. His constant cry was for water; he had not drunk since 
10 a. m. of the previous day, nearly two days, and had travelled day and 
night, hoping to overtake us. He could hardly speak. His tongue and throat 
w^ere parched and furred, and he stated that he had kept pebbles in his mouth 
to endeavor to cause a flow of saliva. 

GRISI.IES AND SNAKES. 

Dr. Gibb and myself, shooting at the word, killed a famous grisly bear 
near the river to-day ; he weighed some nine hundred ponnds, and was excel- 
lent. We killed two rattlesnakes during the day; one three feet long, with 
nine rattles ; the other four feet, with eleven rattles. 

There was a large camp of the Gros Ventres near our nooning place, and some 
of the Indians were rather pressing in their invitations to two of our scouts to 
visit their camp, taking hold of the bridles of the horses. They, however, 
shook them off. Doubtless the motive of the Indians was mainly curiosity. 

August 21. — Travelled over a rolling prairie to the second crossing of ]\Iilk 
river; the ford was good, with a hard gravelly bottom; not much grass; 
water scarce ; plenty of cottonwood and willows. AVe followed the road in 
the afternoon, and camped in the evening on Milk river, with very indifferent 
grazing, but abundance of wood. After crossing the river I fir(;d at a young- 
grisly bear, which was digging roots, and wounded him, but he got away into 
a dense wood on the river's edge. About a dozen of the guard surrounded the 
thicket and sent in one of our dogs. Very soon Ave heard the barking of the 
dog, and cry of "Here! here he is!" In a moment the bear bounded past 
through the timber, with mouth open, taking great leaps like a tiger, the dog 
pursuing him closely. The "boys" fired several shots at him without effect, 
the trees growing very close together, and he got away into the river, taking a 
flying leap over the willows, which were seven or eight feet high. TIm; day 
has been very warm. 

August 28. — Road was nearly all day in the bottom, and we again camped 
in the evening on Milk river. Grass poor; abundance of wood and water. 
The doctor killed a black-tailed deer; and our party brought in hares, sage 
hens, &c., &c. 

August 29. — We travelled over a good level road, near the river, all day, 
crossing two or three small streams, mostly dry, and camped at night on Milk 
river. The hills on our right were rough and broken. The doctor brought 
in a wild goose, prairie chickens, and other game ; and our boys shot three 
buffaloes and a fat doe. Again been very warm to-day. 

August 31) — Sunday. — Remained in camp. Our supper to-day will furnish a 
good specimen of the privations of camp life — venison, buffalo steaks, wild 
goose, prairie chickens, &c., with " Worcester sauce," good hot bread, siru|>, 
tea, coffee, &c. ; pretty good living for the wilderness. 

August 2\. — The road was near Milk river, and was heavy and sandy in 
some parts. Most of the low land near this river is sandy, and covei'cd with 
sage brush ; the grass is scanty, although there is pretty good feed, in patches, 
amons the cottonwood trees that line the stream. 



EXPEDITION OF CAPT. FISK TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 21 

In the afternoon the road was over a more rolling- prairie, and the ground 
was firmer. W(^ had a fine view of the Little Rocky mountains, to our left, 
crossed 0-mut-pa-pa-sha river, named after Mr. jMeldrura, last year, and camped 
on Two Lances river, so called in honor of i\Ir. M.'s Blackfoot wife. 

iMEKT THE FIRST WillTE MEM. 

Near our nooning place we met six teams, and seventy-five or eighty oxen, 
belonging to Colonel Hunkins, of Bannock City. They were going down to 
Fort St. Charles, on the Missouri river, for a steam engine and two quartz mills, 
which the colonel is about to erect at Bannock, for crushing the gold quartz 
found near there. The gentleman in charge of this train stated that when they 
left Bannock City, in June last, business was good, and the mines were yield- 
ing well, but the new gold discoveries at Stinking Water (about 65 miles north- 
east of Bannock) were drawing most of the population in that direction, as the 
placer diggings were far richer than at the Bannock mines. Already fifteen 
miles of claims were being worked at Stinking Water. This place got its name 
from the sulphur water of some springs near which it is located. Provisions at 
the mines Avere lower than they were in the spring. Governor Wallace was ex- 
pected at Bannock City when they left. 

Septemher 1. — Travelled to-day ten miles, and halted at noon on Milk river, 
to rest the stock. There was a fine grove of cottonwo'od trees near, and good 
grass and water. 

Hepicmher 2. — The road to-day was over a rolling prairie ; crossed Milk river 
(third crossing) at a good ford, and halted at noon on a bend of same river. 
In the afternoon we travelled over a high prairie, the road leaving the river in 
a southwesterly direction, the Little Rocky mountains being on our left. We 
found a fine spring at the foot of a lofty isolated peak. This mountain was 
covered with scoria, and its formation was decidedly volcanic. Passed to-day 
numerous prairie dog villages. These are large tracts of land without a blade 
of grass, as the prairie dogs destroy the roots ; the ground is full of their holes, 
in which they keep up an incessant barking, which is like the sound produced 
by children's toy dogs. These little animals somewhat resemble the ground 
squirrel, but have larger bodies and smaller tails. Camped in the evening on 
Beaver creek, with good water, grass, and wood. 

September 3. — Travelled over a good road to Box Elder creek, a tributary of 
Milk river. Passed the Bear's Paw mountains to-day ; they are a rugged chain 
of mountains stretching from Milk river to the Missouri. One of these mount 
ains is cleft at the top, where there is a deep hollow ; it is evidently an extinct 
crater; this is a great hiding place for war parties of Indians. 

TRAIN FROM BA\NUCK CITY. 

The Three Buttes were in sight to-day. We met a very large ox train at 
Box Elder creek, belonging to the American Fur Company, and Mr. Vander- 
burg, of Virginia City, the new name for Stiidving Water ; sent Lieutenant 
Johnson and Autoine Freuier to Fort Benton this morning, to get shoes made 
for the horses, and to prepare sundry supplies for the party. I learned from 
the freighters to-day that wagons can pass through the Bear's Paw range to the 
Missouri, without much difficulty. 

Sej)te?nber 4. — Crossed Big Sandy river, five and a half miles, good water 
and grass, and travelled twenty miles over the long prairie to the springs, 
where we camped. The long prairie is high and level, and the road over it is 
excellent, but there is no water from Big Sandy to the springs. At our eve- 
ning's camp we found water and pretly good grazing, but no wood. Met here 
' Mr. Vanderberg, (whose train we passed yesterday,) and obtained some valuable 
nformation from him with regard to the Virginia City mines. 



22 EXPEDITION OF OAPT. FI8K TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 



MARIAS PaVER. 

September 5. — Our road Avas ovor a high rolling prairie, to tho ]\Iarias river. 
The descent to the valley is very steep ; the view from the heights is splendid; 
the river flows through heavy masses of cottonwood, and the bottoms are cov- 
ered with fresh luxuriant grass ; the stream is rapid, clear, and cold, flowing 
over a pebbly bottom. Where we saw it it was about one hundred feet wide, 
and two to three feet deep. Bluffs rise on either side of the valley to the height 
of two or three hundred feet. This is a beautiful valley, and an admirable 
camping place. 

I had the pleasure of meeting Mr. Dawson, superintendent of Fort Benton, 
the American Fur Company's trading post. Mr. Dawson received us with the 
utmost courtesy and cordiality ; he was following his train to the mouth of 
Milk river, and was accompanied by most of the employes of the company ; . 
he, however, furnished me with letters to Mr. Steel, in charge of the fort, en- 
suring us every facility and accommodation that we might require. 

TETON RIVER. 

September G. — We left camp at 8 a. m., and followed the valley of the Marias 
river to the Teton rivei', camping at 11 a. m., in the valley of that stream, 
about four miles from Fort Benton. This valley resembles that of Marias river, 
in all respects ; Ave found abundance of grass, Avater, and Avood. 

FORT BENTON. 

Our camp on the Teton river Avas the nearest one to Fort Benton. My offi- 
cial relations AA'ith the emigrants ceased at that place, and, having brought my 
little party in safety so fav, Ave fired a salute from the hoAvitzer, and gaA'e three 
hearty ch'eers in honor of the occasion. It Avill be noticed that Ave reached this 
point on the same day of month and year as on the first trip. 

September 7. — Rode over to Fort Benton, where we were most politely re- 
ceiA^ed by Mr. Steel, Avho was in charge of the post; we obtained here some 
necessary supplies for our ouAvard journey to the Rocky mountains, got shoes 
made for the horses and miiles, &c. 

Fort Benton is on the north bank of the Missouri, near the Great Falls; the 
river at this ]>oint is perfectly clear, and, AAhcn Ave saAv it, Av^as from 300 to 500 
feet wide, and about three feet deep. The ^larias empties into the Missouri 
riA-er 12, and the Milk 200 miles beloAv. The Missouri is muddy after receiving 
the Milk river, so named from the color of its Avaters, Avhich are charged Avith 
the Avhitc clay and sand composing its banks. The fort is near the river, on 
a Avide grassy plain, surrounded by high bluffs ; the heights on the opposite side 
of the river are picturesque The buildings are of adobe (sun-dried brick) and 
wood; the Avhole are surrounded by an adobe Avail, 15 to 20 feet in height, and 
the entrance is by large and strong gates. This fort is a trading post of the 
American Fur Company. There are tAvo other posts a short distance up the 
river, both of Avhich are now owned by the company. The principal trade is 
with the Blackfeet and other Indians, but, from the large number of emigrants 
and others passing through here to and from the gold mines of the Rocky 
mountains, it is probable the chief trade, in future, Avill be Avitli the mines. 

As previously mentioned, most of the company's employes had gone down 
the river with Mr. Dawson, leaving here their Blackfeet wiA^es and their chil- 
dren. Met here several freighters, &c., from Bannock and Virginia cities, Avho 
were coming doAvn the Missouri for goods, as the steamer, not being able to 
reach Fort Benton this year, owing to the extraordinary drought, had landed 
her freight at Shre\'eport, and other points lower doAvn. We got late intelligence 
from these gentlemen, shoAving the wonderful richness of the Virginia City 



EXPEDITION OF CAPT. FISK TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 23 

placer diggings. Fini.-ilied shoeing horses and mules, and packed our supplies 
and baggage in light wagons. At 2 p. m. I sold at auction our heavy Avagons, 
tents, stores, &c. 

In the evening I assembled the emigrants and guard, to take my forewell. 
Thanking the emigrants tor their hearty co-operation on the trip, and the cheer- 
fulness with which they had complied with all the regulations of the camp and 
the march, I then expressed to the guard ray sense of the zeal and faithful- 
ness with which they had discharged their duties. Owing to their small num- 
ber, the guard duty had been hea\y whilst passing through the Sioux country. 

Rev. John Torbits presented me with a letter signed by all the emigrants, 
expressing their approval of my conduct, good wishes, &c. I also received a 
letter of affection and good will from the guard, which I shall always highly 
prize. 

In accordance with instructions, the escort was disbanded at this place, but 
about twenty will accompany me to the mountains as teamsters, herders, guard, 
&c., with the stock, which I shall dispose of at Bannock City or Walla- Walla. 

After bidding farewell to the emigrants, we started, passing Fort Benton, 
and taking Captain Mullan's road leading to the high slopes soutlnvest of the 
fort. From the lofty table-land over which the road passes, wc had a fine view 
of the Belt mountains, on the opposite side of the Missouri; passed a large party 
of miners going north to the Saskatchewan river. The gold mines recently 
discovered there are said to be x-ich. Travelled over a high rolling prairie to 
"the springs" and camped. 

SU,M RIVER GOAT FARM, ETC. 

September 10. — This day we travelled to Sun river; halted at noon at "the 
pond;" road excellent. 

Sun river has its source in the main range of the Rocky mountains, about 
latitude 48°, and flows into the Missouri, eight or nine miles above the falls. It 
is a pretty little stream of clear cold water, abounding with fish, and its banks 
are clothed with cottonAvood and willows. The valley is covered with rich 
grass, and possesses a rich soil and a mild climate. 

Septemhei- 11. — Moved to the crossing of the river, and camped near the 
government farm, Blackfoot agency. The farm was in charge of j\Ir. Clark, 
Mr. Vail (who was placed here by Major Reid, Indian agent) having left for 
the Baiuiock City gold mines. The buildings here are in pretty good order, 
but there is hardly any stock left. Many large fields have been under cultiva- 
tion here, and wheat, oats, and all kinds of vegetables have been raised. There 
is a fine view of "Crown Butte" from this place. This mountain is on the 
other side of Sun river, and lias somewhat the appearance of a crown, being 
oval in shape, almost perpendicular near the summit, and capped with irregular 
turrets. The Catholic mission (Jesuit) is about 15 miles from here. Mr. 
Clark states that the fathers have not been able to effect much with the Black- 
feet as yet, but are working hard. The Flatheads, however, (according to Clark,) 
are all Christians; they have given up polygamy, and, as he said, are honest, 
good Indians. We met one of the fathers of the Blackfeet mission at Fort 
Benton. They seem to be universally respected there. The Jesuit Catholic 
fathers have three missions in the mountains — the above-mentioned near Sun 
river, one among the Pend d'Oreilles and Flatheads, and one among the Cfeur 
d'Alenes. 

September 12. — Crossed Sun river, passed "Crown Butte," and camped in the 
evening near Bird-tail rock. This mountain derives its name from its remark- 
able resemblance, at the summit, to the spread tail of a bird. Water and grass 
are good, and there is abundance of wood on to-day's travel. 

September 13. — We travelled over a hilly country to the Dearborn river, 



24 EXPEDITION OF CAPT. FISK TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 

passing between mountains which were spurs of the main Rocky mountain 
range, and ran nearly northeast and southwest. There are some iine tracts of 
arable land south of Bird-tail rock. 

DEARBORN RIVER. 

The Dearborn rises in the main range of the mountains, and flows over a 
rocky bed. It is a fine mountain stream of clear water, and where we struck 
it, was from 50 to 100 feet in width, Avith a deptli of about 2 feet. The river 
was, however, very low this summer ; during the spring freshets it cannot be 
fordable. Tiie banks are covered with cottonwood trees, and there is excellent 
grass in the bottoms. The view in the little valley where we camped was very 
beautiful. We i)itchcd our tents under a grove of trees; the sparkling stream 
dashed over rocks before us, whilst a fresh green prairie stretched to the 
mountains, which rose in our rear like a wall. The sunset was magnificent. 
We caught some trout in the river, which, with game brought in by the rest of 
the party, furnished us with a good hunter's supper. 

ROAD ACiENTS. 

While riding down to the Dearborn this morning, ahead of the trains, accom- 
panied by Dr. Dibb, Lieutenant Johnston, and Antoine Frenier, all of us 
dressed in buckskin suits, fully armed, and probably looking somewhat ''wild," 
we observed a man riding up a ravine leading to the river, and put spurs to our 
horses to intercept him, as we thought that he Avas coming from Bannock City, 
and we wished to get news from there. The stranger, catching sight of ns, 
rode up very slowly, looking somewhat pale and scared. Suddenly recognizing 
Lieutenant Johnston, he greeted him with great cordiality, having, it appears, 
met him at Fort Benton. He then asked us to help him look for his purse, which 
he had thrown away in the grass, taking us for "road agents," i. e. highwaymen ; 
after considerable search, we found his bag of gold dust, containing about $3,000. 

Septcmhcr 14. — Our road to-day was through the valley of the Little Prickly 
Pear, mostly following the course of the creek. The valley where we entered 
it was about half a mile wide, liut it soon narrowed into a rocky cafion, with 
lofty heights on either hand, barely leaving room for the road, which crossed the 
stream twenty-one times. The scenery in this canon is very picturesque ; many 
of the rocks rise almost perpendicularly to the height of 500 or 700 feet, whilst 
the road winds along the river through noble groves of cottonwood and aspen. 
The mountains are well wooded with pine. 

The Little Prickly Pear is a clear mountain stream rising in the main range 
of the Rocky mountains, and flowing into the Missouri above the Dearborn river. 

We camped in the evening near Prickly Pear spur, about two miles from the 
" crossing," with good grass, water, and wood. Met several ti'ams from Virginia 
City going down to the Missouri. 

Septonhcr 15. — Crossed Prickly Pear spur — road very hilly, but good — and 
ascended Medicine Rock mountain. This was the worst part of the road, and 
will recjuire considerable working to make it good. 

morgan's RANCH GOLD QUARTZ, ET( . 

Reached Morgan's ranch, on Little Prickly Pear creek, without accident, and 
camped ; grass, water, and wood excellent. 

On Medicinal Rock we saw quartz for the first time ; it crops out near the 
summit of the mountain ; there are indications of gold here. 

The pines were much larger on this day's journey than any we had yet met 
with, and the uva ursa covered the mountain tops. This evergreen has a small 
oval" leaf of a dark green, and bears a red berry. It grows close to the ground, 



EXPEDITION OF CAPT. FI8K TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 25 

seacling- out i<lioots iti all directions. This is the "Kiiiiiikinnick" of the mount- 
aiu Indians. 

Scptemher 16. — Remained in camp all day to recruit our stock. This is an 
excellent camping place. The valley is most delightful; from two to three 
miles in length hy about a mile in width, and shut in on all sides by mountains. 
The Little Prickly Pear runs through it, furnishing pure, ice-cold water ; the 
grass is fresh and good, and there is plenty of timber on the mountain sides. 

The mountain tops were covered with snow this morning, but it was mild and 
warm in the valley. There are a great many beaver dams down the creek, and 
Morgan (a first-rate hunter) traps from three to five beavers daily. 

A[r. Morgan, the only settler, is building a large log-house here. It will con- 
sist of several good-sized rooms for himself and guests, stalls for horses, and 
"corral" for stock ; the whole surrounded by a wooden stockade ten feet high» 
and covering a considerable area. 

Mr. M. is raising vegetables and grain ; " ranches" stock over the whole val- 
ley, and has p'onies and cattle to trade with emigrants. From the increasing 
traffic over this road he will doubtless do a large business. Morgan supplied 
our party with vegetables, and gave us a fine beaver, which " Sho^-ty" soon con- 
verted into an excellent bouillon. 

Found a few Flatheads and Pend d'Oreilles round the ranch. 

DEATH OF LITTLE HOLVOKE. 

September 17 — Broke camp at 8 o'clock a. m. Mr. William H. Ilolyoke, an 
invalid, who had accompanied the expedition for the benefit of his health, seemed 
weak and ailing this morning, but insisted on proceeding, and got into the flag- 
wagon, where we had prepared him a bed. After travelling about a mile he got 
much worse, and Dr. Dibb (who was in advance of the train) was sent for, but 
by the time that the doctor arrived poor Holyoke was no more. He died 
almost without a struggle. I ordered the wagons back to Morgan's ranch, de- 
ciding to wait for the emigrant train and bury our comrade when the rest of the 
party came up; we accordingly again camped near Morgan's. 

Mr. Ilolyoke bore the hardships of the journey with a brave and uncomplain- 
ing spirit, although so great a sufferer. He retained his cheerfulness to the last,, 
and was a universal favorite. With but a piece of one lung, he undertook a 
gi'eat journey. 

September IS. — The emigrants having arrived last night, we buried the re- 
mains of our late companion this day. The Rev. Mr. Torbet conducted the 
burial service. The coffin was covered with the "old flag;" the corpse was fol- 
lowed by the whole party, and the guard fired three volleys over the grave.. 
Mr. Holyoke is buried on the slope of the mountains near Morgan's ranch. I 
caused a headstone to be placed on the grave with the name of the deceased cut 
in rough letters, and arranged with Morgan to protect the grave with curb- 
stones, plant trees round it, and guard it from desecration. 

September 19. — We again left the emigrants, and retook the road over the 
mountains, crossing Silver creek, and camping on the Big Prickly Pear, with 
water, grass, and wood. The pines get larger as we advance. The water of' 
the mountain streams is delicious — cold, clear, and entirely pure in flavor ; both 
men and animals drink it very freely. 

FEND U'OREILLB L\DIANS. 

Met to-day a band of about three hundred Pend d'Oreilles starting to hunt 
the buffalo south of Fort Benton. They had with them some remarkably fine 
horses, but the appearance of the Indians was mean. 

The Pend d'Oreilles are generally civil and well-behaved ; the Catholic mis- 



26 EXPEDITION OF CAPT. FISK TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 

vsion in their midst (previously mentioned) seems to have much improved their 
character. 

To-night we came up with Mr. Blodgett and two or thi-ee others who are hunt- 
ing and trapping in the mountains around here. They have been very success- 
ful, and are making large wages. 

PKICKLY PEAR GOLD DlGOm'GS. 

The Prickly Pear gold mines are to the southeast of our camp, in the valley 
of the creek. These "diggings" have not yielded much as yet; the miners have 
been at work all the summer constructing dams, a long ditch, &c., and seem 
sanguine as to the result of next year's working. The gold found here is fine 
"flake" gold, and is near the surface. The majority of my first party stopped 
liere, but soon after moved over to what is now Bannock City, &c. 

CROSS THE GREAT RANGE. 

September 20. — Crossed the summit of th(^ Rocky mountains about three or 
four miles from our morning camp. We fired a salute in honor of the occasion, 
and descended Otter creek to the Little Blackfoot river, camping on that stream, 
with excellent grazing and wood. Otter creek abounds Avith beaver dams, one 
of which we had to cut, as it had flooded the road. 

The Blackfoot is a rapid mountain stream, forty or fifty feet wide at the cross- 
ing, with a depth of two or three feet; the giass in the bottoms was waist-high 
when we passed, and there is fine pine timber on the mountains. 

GOLD PROSPECT TROUT, ETC. 

Many of my party washed the loose soil of the river bank; the yield of gold 
varies from two to ten cents to the pan. This spot had been " prospected" and 
left for the richer "diggings" at Virginia City. This is a beautiful little val- 
ley, and contains some very desirable spots for settlements, though its altitude 
may prevent its being brought under cultivation. 

There are plenty of the real speckled trout in this river, and in all its tribu- 
taries; the valley is full of game. 

DEER LODGE VA'.LEV. 

September 21. — Travelled through the valley of the Little Blackfoot, and over 
the mountains to Livingstone creek, descending into the Deer Lodge river near 
Johnny Grant's ranch. The present Johnny Orant is a son of old Johnny 
Grant, who settled here thirty years ago. Mr. Grant owns some 4,000 head of 
cattle, and 2,000 or 3,000 ponies. The miners of Bannock and Virginia cities 
get most of their beef from him, and he trades his ponies at Salt lake for flour, 
&c. He is reported to be worth S300,000 or -$400,000. Cottonwood City is 
springing up near here on the Deer Lodge. It contains about 30 houses and 
150 inhabitants. Messrs. Higgins and Moran have large stores, with supplies 
of all kinds for the miners. The Deer Lodge is a flne stream of pure water 
running to the north. After receiving the Little Blackfoot it takes the name of 
the Hell Gate river. 

The Deer Lodge valley is an admirable tract for grazing and farming. Wheat 
and oats grow luxuriantly at Dempsey's farm, and vegetables of all kinds arc 
raised. The grass is sweet and excellent, and there is fine timber on the mount- 
ain sides. The climate is warm and mild ; snow seldom falls to more than the 
depth of two or three inches, and melts during the day. 

Grant's cattle range the valley the whole winter; many of these animals are 
so fat that their appeai'ance is similar to that of Berkshire shoats fed for the fair. 

Some of my party of 1862 left Avork-cattle here in the fall that were thin and 



EXPEDITION OF CAPT. FI8K TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 27 

worn oiil with the journoy across the phiins; in April they were very fat, and 
were sold for beef cattle. 

Gold has been discovered here not far from the American fork of Hell Gate 
river; the claims paid about $10 per day to tlie man, but were deserted for the 
Stinking- Water dig'p;ings. 

Se])tcmber 22. — We crossed the Deer Lodge, moved three miles further up 
the river, and camped to rest and recruit our stock ; grass, water, and wood 
abundant. 

There are plenty of trout in this stream; two or three of our party caught 
sixty (weighing from a pound to a pound and a half each) in an hour or two. 

THE WARM SPRINGS. 

Sejytcmher 2.3. — We forded three creeks running into the Deer Lodge, and 
halted at noon on Warm Spring creek; near here are the warm springs. The 
piincipal one has formed, from the deposits of the water, a circular conical 
mount about fifty feet high; the rock resembles magnesia limestone. The water 
of this spring boils np to the surface, but does not run over; its temperature is 
about 100 degrees Fahrenheit, and it is almost tasteless; its diameter is between 
two and three feet, and we could not touch bottom with a long pole. Round 
the base of the hill are numerous springs, much wanner than this one, probably 
from 120 degrees to 150 degrees Fahrenheit. 

I noticed pieces of wood around the springs that were completely petrified 
by the action of the water. In the afternoon we passed, the second crossing of the 
Deer Lodge, and camped in the evening on the last crossing of the same stream. 
We lost a mule to-day by sickness. Messrs. King and Worrell, of Virginia 
City, came into our camp this evening. They report that the claims at that 
place are yielding very large quantities of gold. 

September 24. — Passed the Divide through the Big Hole this morning. There 
is a good natural road, and the ascent was almost imperceptible; this is the best 
pass in the range. The mountains on either side Avere grand, their summits 
capped with snow. 

We camped in the evening on the last crossing of Divide creek, with good 
grazing and wood (willow.) During the day it was ver}' warm, but there is a 
slight frost every night. 

September 25. — Crossed Moose creek, and at noon came in sight of Big Hole 
(or Wisdom) river, a tributary of the Jefferson fork of the Missouri. It was here a 
fine bold stream from 100 to 150 feet wide, and two to three feet in depth, with 
lofty Cottonwood trees on its banks. We followed the stream down to the bridge, 
which we found to be so much out of repair as to be unsafe for wagons; we 
therefore forded the river, although with some difficulty, as the current was rapid, 
and the bottom full of large loose stones; the depth of Avater at the crossing was 
between two and three feet, but the river is extraordinarily low this summer 
from the great drought. After the spring freshets this stream must be a perfect 
torrent, and I believe that a bridge would be necessary in most seasons. The 
toll-housc near the bridge mms deserted; all had gone to Stinking Water mines. 

Camped in the evening near the crossing of Big Hole river, with fine fresh 
grass and plenty of wood. We met several wagons near the river this afternoon 
coming from Virginia City mines. I asked one of the men where he came from. 
He answered, pretty gruffly, Hell Gate. Where had he been ? Stinking Water. 
What was the name of this valley? Big Hole. The stranger went his way 
without another word. These wagons bad been taking vegetables from Hell 
Gate to Vii-ginia City mines. The farmers had got very high prices for their 
produce. Potatoes and onions were worth I'rom 25 to 40 cents per pound. 

September 26. — Crossed Rock creek, Willow creek, and halted at noon on 
Birch creek; camped here for the day to give our stock a rest; the grass was 



28 EXPEDITION OF CAPT. FISK TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 

high and good; wood plentiful. The Big Hole, in which we are travelling, is a 
large and beautiful prairie, about fifty miles long by fifteen wide; it is almost 
surrounded by mountains; the grazing is good; the Big Hole river and the creeks 
running into it are fringed with cottonwood, and th(! sides of the mountains are 
covered with pine. 

Sejit ember 21. — Travelled to Rattlesnake river and camped. Wehad to drive 
our stock two miles furtlier down the stream to get feed, the grass having been eaten 
down by cattle and ponies from the ranch at the crossing of Rattlesnake river. 

Mines yielding from 85 to $15 per day to the man have been prospected on 
botli the Big Hole and Rattlesnake. 

ARRIVAL AT iSANNOCK CITY RECEPTION BY THE PEOPLE, ETC., ETC., ETC. 

Septc7nber 28. — Our road to-day was pretty good, but very hilly within a few 
miles of Bannock City. Whilst on the heights abovci the city a snow-storm 
came on, and some of the mules in one of our teams becoming frightened at the 
snow driving in their faces, started at a gallop down the hill, running against 
the howitzer and upsetting both gun and wagon ; fortunately there were no serious 
results from this accident. On uearing the city we fired a salute and rode in, 
camping on "Yankee flats," across Grasshopper creek. 

i\ir. N. P. Langford (one of my assistants on last year's expedition) met us, 
accompanied by many of the emigrants that I had taken out in 1862. We were 
soon surrounded by a crowd of miners, and received a most hearty welcome. 
The "old Hag" was greeted with three cheers, and we were similarly compli- 
mented upon the t^^rmination of our journey. We seemed to have met a band of 
brothers, so kindly and hospitably were we received. "Yankee flats," where 
we were carnped, obtained its name from most of the Minnesotians settling there 
last year. It is a small grassy plain across the Grassho])per, at tin; entrance tO' 
the city ; there is one street of log cabins. Bannock City was not a year old 
when we visited it, and contained nearly a thousand inhabitants. 

In June last there were 3,000 or 4,000 people here, but most of them left for 
the "Stinking Water mines," (afterwards called Virginia City,) on their discovery 
in that month, the gulch or placer " diggings" being infinitely richer on the 
"Stinking Water creek." 

Bannock City nestles among lofty granite mountains ; the Grasshopper creek, 
a tributary of the Jefferson fork of the Missouri, running through the valley, 
latitude 44.30, longitude 112^^ west. The city consists of one long and some 
short, irregular streets, of log and frame shanties and stores, built along the creek; 
"bakeries" and restaurants abounding for the floating po[)ulatiun. 

THE BANNOCK MINES. 

Following the road along the creek through the canon, we came to the gulch 
diggings, and found the miners busily at work on both sides of the stream; their 
"claims" are fifty feet wide, stretcliing from base to base of the mountains, and 
extend about four miles. These are the " Poor Man's" mines, reijuiring little 
capital to work them ; the yield I found to be from $5 to $15 per day to the man, 
although there are some rich claims producing large amounts. Water ditches- 
are carried around the mountain sides at different heights, to supply sluice boxes, 
the water having been brought a distance of 10 or 15 miles, near the tops of the 
mountains. The miners have turned the creek in some places, and are sinldng- 
shafts in the old channel. 

Further down the caOon there is a small water-power quartz mill, with four 
wooden stamps. This rude contrivance, conducted by one man, crushes $1,500 
Avorth of gold per week. 

A large frame building is in course of erection near here, for Colonel Haiddns' 



EXPEDITION OF CAPT. FISK TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 29 

tAvo gtamp mills n\ul steam engine, Avhicli are expected to arrive shortly from tlie 
Missouri river. McCleggan & Co. are also putting up a stamp mill and engine, 
l^oth of these mills will simply crush the quartz for the miners, at aper-centage. 
Beyond this the caiion gets narrower, and the mountains are lofty and more 
precipitous. 

THE QUARTZ LOUES OF BANNOCK. 

Here are the quartz lodes. The sides of the mountains arc dotted with red 
spots, the ore tlirown out from the shafts. I went up to examine the discoveries. 
The Dakota lode is the only one worked at yet, the ore being crushed by the 
little mill I have mentioned. The yield varies from $300 to $2,000 per cord, 
and they can only crush about two and a half (2j) cords per week. This lode 
was the first discovered, is wonderfully productive, and they find that the ore 
gets richer as they get lower down. The quartz is burnt of a red or chocolate 
color, very soft, and readily crushed. The lode is mainly worked at present 
v/ith pick and shovel, without drilling or blasting, as the rocks through which 
the quartz has been forced up are calcined by the intense heat to Avliich they 
have been subjected. The lode, as it descends, runs into pyrites of iron. The 
ca]) rock is not yet pierced. 

In addition to the above lode, they have already discovered over fifty othei's — 
Waddam's, Cherokee, Phillips's, Minnesota, Ladies', Grasshopper, Mammoth, 
Cynthia, &;c., &c. 

Lodes have also been opened a mile or two from Bannock City, on the Vir- 
ginia City road, and I think it probable that they will be found through the whole 
of this part of the mountain range. 

With the exception of the Dakota, the miners are not working the quartz 
lodes to any great extent, as they need capital and mills. They have, however, 
sunk shafts and tested the ore. Some of the lodes promise to be as rich as the 
Dakota, and the yield varies, as previously stated, from $300 to $2,000 per cord. 

In almost all the pieces of ore that 1 picked up near the mouths of the shafts 
the gold was distinctly visible. A fragment of about two inches in diameter, 
taken from the Ladies' lode, contained about $5 worth of gold. 

I am assured by Mr. Langford that miners taking a sack full of ore doAvn to 
their cabins have pounded out in a mortar from 50 to 75 dollars' Avorth of gold, 
and .f 1,100 have been panned out of a wagon load. 

Gold quartz mining requires capital and machinery, and can only be profitably 
conducted by companies or associations. Doubtless many such will be in opera- 
tion next year; and I am confident that when the quartz lodes of Bannock are 
])roperly worked, the yield of gold Avill he ■permanently greater than that of the 
Virginia City mines. 

I should not be surprised, however, if similar lodes are discovered in other 
portions of this chain of mountains. 

During my stay at Bannock City I learned that the valleys of the Jefferson, 
Madison and Gallatin forks of the Missouri were good agricultural districts. 
Grain and vegetables can be raised there. Grass and water are good, and there 
is abundance of fine timber on the mountains. . 

I intended to proceed from this place to Walla- Walla, there to dispose of my 
remaining stock, wagons, &c., as directed, but United States marshal Paine ar- 
riving from the latter place, brought intelligence that the road was impassable 
from snow, he having got through with the greatest difficulty. 

VIRGINIA CITY AND THE NEW MINES. 

I determined to sell everything either at Bannock or Virginia cities, and re- 
turn from thence : accordingly, leaving matters in charge of Lieut. Johnson at 
Bannock, I started for Virginia City. 



30 EXPEDITION OF CAPT. FISK TO THE liOCKY MOUNTAINS. 

We travelled over .a hilly but fair road to Virginia City, whieh is situated a 
little to the north of the 45th paralLl of latitude, longitude 111;^ west. The 
city is divided into Virginia and Nevada cities, joining one another, and con- 
sisting of a long street of stores and eateries, with side streets branching off at 
right angles. The general appearance is the same as at Bannock City. 

The population is about four thousand. 

The mines are on Elder creek, a small stream flowing into the Stinking Water 
at a point about 20 miles from its confluence with the Jefferson fork of the 
Missouri. 

The Stinking Water, or Virginia City, mines are about sixty-ffve miles from 
Bannock City, in a northeasterly direction, and are said to be as rich as any 
mines ever Avorked. 

These mines were discovered by a party of miners returning from a prospect- 
ing tour to the Yellowstone river. 

The Stinking Water takes it name from the sulphur springs that run into it. 

The " diggings," or paying claims, extend nearly 15 miles, and while a few 
claims do not pay well, the majority are very rich. 

YIELD OF THE MINES. 

The average pay throughout the whole extent of this gulch is probably $20 
per day to the man ; some claims yielding as high as ^50, $75, and $100 to 
the man daily. 

In many places the bed rock is 25 feet below the surf;ice, involving an ex- 
pense of from $200 to $1,500 in opening a claim, but, when once opened, the 
claims have invariably paid well. The inhabitants of this gulch number some 
7,000 or 8,000, and it is estimated that the average yield of gold per week 
has been $500,000. 

Bevans's gulch is about 15 miles north of Virginia City, in the same range of 
mountains, on a small stream which flows into the Stinking Water. The dig- 
gings in this gulch are about six miles in extent, and are very easily Avorked, 
having but about three feet of " stripping," and below this four feet of " pay 
dirt " above the bed rock, and are paying $10 to $15 per day to the man. There 
are nearly 1,000 miners in this place. 

Two new " diggings " were discovered while 1 was in Virginia City: " Har- 
ris's gulch," between Bevans's and Virginia City, and " Brown's gulch," on a 
branch of Elder creek. 

The claims in these gulches were all taken up, and miners were doing well ; 
the yield was about the same as at Bevans's gulch, and over 1,000 men wen; at 
work in the two gulches. 

I should hav(; mentioned that the claims in Virginia City mines have 100 feet 
front, running on both sides of the creek from base to base of the mountains. 

POPULATION. 

The population of the Virginia and Bannock City mines was estimated by th(^ 
United States marshal at 12,000, but it has been largely added to since then 
from Colorado and elsewhere. 

I have seen for'myself what the mines are yielding, and the figures I have 
given can be relied on as truthful and moderate. The data were kindly fur- 
nished to me by Hon. N. P. Langford, now member of the Idaho legislatute for 
the mining districts. 

This gentleman has carefully watched the progress of the mines, and his 
Avell-known ciiaracter for accuracy and honor is a sufficient guarantee for the 
correctness of his statements. 

I believe the total yields of the eastern slope mines to be from $600,000 to 
$700,000 per week, and that nearly $15,000,000 of gold is now \\'aiting safe 
transportation to the eastern States. 



EXPEDITION OF CAPT. FISK TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 31 



THE YELLOAVSTONK GOLD FIELDS. 

A prospecting party that left Bannock last spring found gold at the mouth of 
the Big Horn river, and their explorations furnish the fullest proof that the 
mountains at the headwaters of the Yellowstone and mouth of the Big Horn 
abound with gold. 

This party of fifteen men, all old miners, were unable to pursue their dis- 
coveries, owing to the hostilities of the Crows, Avho attacked them, headed by 
Red Bear, killing three men, wounding four more, and driving them out of the 
country. These men discovered the Virginia City mines whilst returning to 
Bannock. They report the country around the mouth of the Big Horn and in the 
valley of the Yellowstone to be the finest agricultural tract yet discovered, with 
a rich and fertile soil, luxuriant grass, well-wooded streams, and a mild, warm 
climate, with frequent showers. From old voyageurs and others I learn that 
the Yellowstone valley retains the same character, as for east as the Black 
Hills, and is the great hunting-ground of the Crows, Blackfeet, and other moun- 
tain Indians. 

Many other small parties of miners having been robbed and murdered by 
the Crows last year, James Stewart, of Virginia City, who has lived for the 
past twelve years in the mountains of Idaho, will start early in the spring for 
the Yellowstone with a party of miners, mounted and heavily armed, and un- 
dertake to get a foothold in the country. 

The miners are most anxious that a military post should be established at the 
mouth of the Big Horn to protect them from the attacks of the Crows, Avho 
have declared Avar against all Avhite men prospecting in the YelloAvstone coun- 
try, stating their determination to kill every miner found in their hunting-grounds. 

I feel confident that the government Avill see the necessity of protecting the 
miners in their efforts to explore and open up this magnificent country. 

The great richness of the Bannock and Virginia City mines, and others in 
their vicinity, together Avith the above important discoA^ery on the Yellowstone, 
demonstrate to a certainty that the eastern slope of the great Ilocky mountain 
divide is full of mineral Avealth, and that the country between Bannock City and 
the headAvaters of the Yellowstone, ranging from latitude 43° to 47° Avill, 
Avherever security is given from hostile Indians, be developed as the richest 
mining region on the continent. 

It is a source of the highest gratification to me, that such should have been 
the amazing results of the discoveries made in the fall of 1862 by the party of 
emigrants in my charge, and under the protection of the government expedition* 

HOMEWARD BOUND — EXPRESS LINE, MORRISITES, MORMONS, ETC. 

1 sold my remaining stock, wagons, horses, &c., at Virginia and Bannock 
Cities, starting from the latter place on my return journey by the Bannock City 
express for Great Salt Lake. 

The " express" is, of course, rather a primitive aftair as yet. A coA^ered Avagon 
leaves Bannock once a Aveek for Salt Lake. There are very few stations on 
the road, and the Indian ponies that compose the teams get a precarious living 
from the " picking" by the way. 

In crossing the Rocky mountains to the south we encountered a snoAV-storm, 
and the cold Avas severe, the thermometers registering 20° beloAv zero on the 
night that we camped on the " Divide." The snow Avas five or six inches deep. 

We found a ferry over Snake river with a guard of General Conner's men. 
One hundred and fifty Avagons from Denver, bound for the eastern slope mines, 
Avere Avaiting to be ferried over. We subsequently met about four hundred 
teams from Colorado, and learned from the emigrants that that Territmy would 
be almost depopulated by the immense emigration to Idaho in the spring. 



32 EXPEDITION OF CAPT. FISK TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 

We travelled fVom this point over a military road that General Conner has 
run from Salt Lake. It is rough at present, but will be a fair route for emi- 
grants when worked. 

On entering the mountains to the north of the ]\[ormon settlements, we passed 
"Soda Springs," a small town of " Morrisite.s," seceders from Mormonism. 
There are numerous hot springs near this place. Captain Black is camped here 
with two companies of cavalry. His men have discovered gold mines within 
twenty -five miles. General Conner's cavalry is mostly composed of old Cali- 
fornians, and the general encourages them in prospecting whenever practicable, 
wishing to develop the mineral resources of the Mormon settlements. 

Near Bear river we visited the scene of General Conner's fight Avith the 
Snake and Bannock Indians last spring. Many of the skeletons of the Indians 
yet remained on the ground, their bones scattered by the wolves. Since their 
punishment the Snakes and Bannocks have made a treaty with tin; general, and 
not one emigrant has bi?en molested. 

The Mormon settlements contain some beautiful valleys; grain and vegetables 
of all kinds are cultivated, and fine cattle and horses are raised. There are also 
mills and various sorts of manufactories. The towns contain many handsome 
public edifices and dwellings; the people are hard working and industrious, and 
are Avell supplied with most of the comforts of life. The inhabitants of the 
rural districts seemed to me to be an unsophisticated race, Avith a profound be- 
lief in their church, to which they pay one-tenth of all their produce. They 
are mostly from the laboring classes of different Evxropean countries. Gold has 
been found by the soldiers in various parts of the settlements; its existence has 
been known for sume time to the leaders of the Mormon church, but they have 
invariably discouraged mining. 

SALT LAKE CITV. 

Passing the great Salt Lake, we arrived at Salt Lake City. This place is 
like a big country village on Sunday, and should have been long ago levelled 
with its salt beds for its lechery and its open insolence towards the general gov- 
ernment. 

I went to the tabernacle and heard Bishop Woolley incite his flock to sneer 
at the "blue skins," (meaning our soldiers stationed there,) and he bluntly as- 
serted, while admonishing Mormons not to sell any article of produce to the 
Gentiles, that, "in less than a year, a bushel of wheat would bc^ worth, more 
than a bushel of ' greenbacks,' " &c. 

HOW TO GET RID OF THEIM. 

I could think of but one plan to go at this nest and break it up, and that 
Avas, to get up an oath which every head of a family should be obliged to take, 
and in which should be embodied an entire and immediate renouncement of 
polygamy. This would be in keeping Avith our laws, and Avould give General 
Conner some more good work to do. 

GENERAL CONNER, BRIGHAM, ETC. 

I had here the pleasure of meeting General Conner and visiting his camp 
near the city. The general has about 1,200 cavalry, Avith artillery, and in- 
formed me that he expected shortly to have 2,500 men under his command. 
I saAV some specimens of silver at headquarters. The lodes haA'e been discov- 
ered in the mountains near Salt Lake City, and have been traced for several 
hundred miles. The ore is said to be extremely rich. General Conner's policy 
seems to be to explore the mineral Avealth of this country and to attract miners 
thither. The general has since issued an order stating that prospectors and 



EXPEDITION OF CAPT. FISK TO THE KOCKY MOUNTAINS. 33 

miuers in Utah will be protected wbeu necessary by tlie military, and directing 
that soldiers at the several posts shall, whenever convenient, be permitted to 
prospect for minerals. 

Brigham Yonng has hitherto sncceeded in keeping his own and other people 
from the riches buried in the mountains of this Territory; but now there will prob- 
ably be an influx of fortune-seekers that will materially disturb the qniet of 
liis little kingdom, and perhaps be the means of overthrowing this damnable in- 
stitution. General Conner is a soldier, loved and admired by his men, hated 
and feared by Indians and Mormon*. Most nndoubtedly " he is the right man in 
the I'ight place " here. 

"THE OVERLAND STAGE LINE." 

I left Salt Lake by the "overland stage," travelling over the saline plains of 
Laramie and Colorado Territory and the sand deserts of Nebraska and Kansas. 
The country was strewed with the skeletons and carcases of cattle, and the 
graves of the early Mormon and California pilgrims lined the roadside. This is 
the worst emigrant route that I have ever travelled ; much of the road is through 
deep sand ; feed is very scanty ; a great deal of the water is alkaline, and the 
snows in winter render it impassable for trains. The stage line is wretchedly 
managed. The company undertake to furnish travellers with meals, (at a dollar 
a meal,) but very frequently on arriving at a station there Avas nothing to eat, 
the supplies had not been sent on. On one occasion we fasted for thirty-six 
hours. 

The stages were sometimes in a miserable condition. We were put into a 
coach one night with only two boards left in the bottom. On remonstrating 
with the driver, we were told to hold on by the sides. During the night we 
lost two mail-bags and the baggage of one of the passengers, owing to the con- 
dition of the stage. Very little care was taken of baggage placed in charge of 
the company. 

LOST VALLSE. 

On arriving at Latham, my valise, containing government vouchers, &c., was 
missing. I got conveyance back 30 miles to Camp Collins, in the Cache-la- 
poudre valley, where 1 was furnished with a sergeant and ten mounted men of 
the 1st Colorado cavalry, and proceeded up the road through the worst snow- 
storm I ever experienced. Some 90 miles further, recovered my valise, and 
returned, making the journey in live days. My valise broke through the rotten 
boot of the coach, but had been picked up by an honest teamster, and was not 
disturbed. 

While at Fort Bridger previously an emigrant brought along two heavy sacks 
of mail matter which he had found on the road and had been hauling for several 
days. Judge Carter, the postmaster, received these stray bags, and compen- 
sated the finder. 

While at Virginia Dale a brass lock and the chain of another lost sack was 
brought in, but there Avere no traces of the whereabouts of the bag and its 
contents. 

Deep snow prevailed over the whole route to Atchison ; many cattle were 
frozen to death, and several men perished from the extreme cold. 

The stages were, of course, much detained from the same cause. Such 
storms and depth of snow rarely, if ever, occur on any part of the northern 
route. 

A NEW ROUTE PROPOSED. 

From experience gained in my two trips over the northern route, and from 
information obtained in the gold country of the eastern slope and elsewhere, I 
am convinced that a more direct and much shorter overland road than any yet 

IT. Ex. Doc. 45—3 



34 EXPEDITION OF CAPT. FISK TO THE KOCKY MOUNTAINS. 

travelled can be had. And if I have any desire for further travel, it is to com- 
plete the work of exploration of the country lying west of Minnesota, to the east 
side gold fields of Idaho, and to pennanently establish a direct road which shall 
connect the head of navigation on the Mississippi with the trails leading to the 
Columbia, through the Big Hole passes of the Rocky monntains. This road to 
the gold mines would be shorter by 800 miles than any other route, excepting 
the one that 1 travelled last year. 

The distance from Atchison by the overland route to the Big Hole coimtry 
is 1,670 miles; by my northern route it is 1,340 miles; by the proposed route 
it would not exceed SoO miles, or .550 miles to the mouth of the Big Horn, in 
the Yellowstone valley. 

The new route would be direct, almost an air line, following as nearly as 
possible the 45° parallel of latitude. 

The country passed through Avould be better for emigrants and for military 
operations than any other line travelled. 

From St. Paul to the Missouri it is known to be practicable and good. In 
the summer of 1857 I was as far west as the Missouri on this parallel. 

Beyond the Missouri we crossed the plateau from which flow the streams that 
make north to the Missouri and Yellowstone and stripe the Yellowstone 
valley, the garden of the unexplored northwest — a country rich in mineral 
deposits, abounding with streams, covered with luxuriant grass, and possessing 
a mild, wann climate, free from snow in winter, and a rich fertile soil. 

This is the ";reat winter resort of the buffalo, and the favorite huntino:-o:round 
of most of the tribes of northwestern Indians. 

In 1858 I met Sir George Gore, who had just returned from a hunting excur- 
sion from the Black Hills to the Jefferson fork of the Missouri. He fully con- 
firmed all that I had gathered from trappers and hunters with regard to the 
country between the Black Hills and the Yellowstone valley. 

From the eastern slope mines to the Yellowstone valley the country has been 
travelled; from St. Paul to the Black Hills I know the route, and thence to the 
mouth of the Big Horn, a distance not exceeding three hundred miles. 

I am conversant, from reports of reliable men, with the chai'acter of the 
country. Light-draught steamboats, with heavy freight, can ascend the Yellowstone 
from Fort Union to the mouth of the Big Horn. In fact, arrangements are 
already made to navigate these waters this spring. 

If such a route as I have indicated were opened, and kept open by military 
posts, it would become the great highway for miners returning from Washington, 
Oregon, Utah, Nevada, and Idaho Territories ; and the large amount of treasure 
that I have spoken of would find it.s way to the east. 

I can but urge iipon the government the expediency and necessity of opening 
a direct wagon-road to the gold mines of the Eastern Slope and the Big Hole 
passes of the Rocky mountains, connecting the headwaters of the Mississippi 
and Columbia. 

My matured plan for a route to the mountains, and also as a military measure 
for next summer, securing us against further serious trouble with hostile tribes 
of Indians by a conquest of their only winter resort and hunting-grounds, and 
thrusting them inevitably north to the Saskatchewan country, Avould be to 
marshal the host of emigrants bound to go at a rendezvous upon our border, say 
at Big Stone lake, a point intermediate between Forts Abercrombie and Ridgely, 
on the Avestern line. 

The column should be supplied with a military force or escort of, say, one 
thousand mounted men, with a flying light batteiy. The emigrants in their 
settlement, and the military as they may be stationed, one or more companies 
in a place, will form jointly and surely the conquering and possessing force on 
the whole line of march, which would be, head of Coteau des Pi'airies, Wide 
Water or Big Timber on James river, mouth of Grand river or Old Ree village 



EXPEDITION OF CAPT. FISK TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 35 

on Missouri, crossing of Little IMissouri, nioutli of Big Horn river on Yellowstone, 
three forks of Missouri and new mines of Idaho, to Big Hole passes of Rocky- 
mountains. 

These are the best passes of the Rocky mountains, and I noAv look forward 
to a time when a line of railroad, known as the Northern Pacific, will necessa- 
rily and easily find its way over the route proposed through these passes, and 
leading west, probably along the Nez Perce trail, striking Lewis's fork of 
Oolnmbia (Snake river) at or near LeAviston. 

A MINERAL BUREAU. 

It has heretofore frequently occurred to me that our government was deficient 
in one important branch, actually demanding a head at Washington ; and that 
is a mineral bureau, with a commissioner general or registrar general, who should 
have an accurate registry of all mineral discoveries, and for each community to 
have power to appoint, under sanction of the President, a local registrar. In 
visiting the various mining camp? in the mountain country and beyond, this 
question suggested itself every day, or every hour in the day, and many men 
have asked me if there could not be some means provided bv which a more 
reliable and indisputable record could be made of their claims. 

These men, in foct every miner in our land, would cheerfully pay his ten or 
twenty dollars for the satisfaction of having his claim registered under a United 
States officer, which would insure him against abuse and litigation. 

The revenue, (in gold,) and the vast benefits resulting in many ways from 
such a measure, it seems to me, must be plain to any one who will give the sub- 
ject a moment's attention. Through these agencies a very much greater amount 
of gold might be secured to our own mints and national treasury. 

Finally, in closing this report I deem it my duty to state, that whatever may 
have been accomplished by these two expeditions, placed under my charge, 
much of their success is attributable to the actual physical efi'orts of the men 
connected with them, for the amount appropriated in both instances was very 
much less than any one was ever before asked to imdertake similar tasks with. 
I may safely say that the finiits of the $15,000 expended during the two jour- 
neys just closed will figure up now to the amouut of -$20, 000, 000 of gold in 
circulation and waiting shipment, with a prospect of ten times that amount forth- 
comnig, during the next three years, from the east side gold fields of Idaho. 
My first ])arty pioneered and held out against the Snakes and Bannocks until 
Colonel Conner brought those savages to terms of (I believe) lasting peace, by 
the terrible punishment which he inflicted upon them at Bear river. 

I have not a bit of faith in the policy which our government has thus far pur- 
sued towards the natives or aborigines of America. The Indian cannot appre- 
ciate kindness ; he invariably receives it as evidence of cowardice or timidity, and 
treacherously abuses all our generous deeds. The hunter, the trapper, the voy- 
ageur, the explorer, the traveller, the frontiersman, and every man of nature, Avhose 
life has been devoted to the subduing of the wilds of our continent, has spoken out 
against self-sought mediation with the Indian. My own conviction is, that as 
fast as we require we should possess the tei'ritory of the United States with 
impunity, and bring all hostile or opposing forces to terms of peace, at their own 
solicitation. 

No one thing, in my mind, has ever proved so fatal and disastrous to our 
march of western settlement as the sending of commissioners and blankets, in 
advance of emigration, for the purchase of territory. 

The health of our party was so general and uninterrupted that I have deemed 
it unnecessary to require of the physician and surgeon a formal report, as before. 
Dr. William D. Dibb, who accompanied me on the first trip, was again with us 



36 EXPEDITION OF CAPT. FISK TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 

this last season, and was much esteemed by all. He is a gentleman, and as a 
surgeon and physician has high attainments. 

Cleorge W. Dart, first assistant, and Antoine Frenier, chief of scouts, remained 
in the mountains. These aids were always faithful in the discharge of duty, 
and much respected by all the party. 

Lieutenant Samuel H. Johnston accompanied me as second assistant and 
journalist, and returns with me to headquarters. I like this gentleman for his 
high order of talents and his genial nature, and take this occasion to acknowl- 
edge the great value of his services to me throughout the trip. 

Future expeditions westward should be enabled to start as soon as the 25th 
of May. 

I have the honor to be, sir, your most obedient servant, 

JAMES L. FISK, 
Captain., Assistant Quartermaster, Commanding Exjyedition. 
General L. Thomas, 

Adjutant General United States Army, Washington, D. C. 

Official copy : 

W. A. NICHOLS, 

Assistant Adjutant General- 



EXPEDITION OF CAPT FISK TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 37 



Itinerary of route from Fort Ahcrcromhie to Fort Benton, as travelled hy 
Captain James L. Fisk's overland expedition, 3 863. 



July 


13 


1 




15 


2 




15 


3 




15 


4 



Aug. 1 
1 



23 


14 


23 


15 


24 
24 
24 
24 


16 
17 
18 
19 


25 


20 


25 


21 


26 


22 


26 


23 


27 


24 


28 


25 


29 


26 


29 


27 


30 


28 



29 



9 S 

o a 

■a S 

O OJ 

o 3 

S3 5 



Wild Rice river ; bed dry at cro:ising ; poor grass ; plenty of wood ; water in 

pools lower down 

Bend of Wild Rice river; pools of brackish water in bed of river; grass scanty ; 



wood. 

Small lake, (Mud lake;) very little water ; grass ; no wood 

Sheyenne river ; 2 to 3 feet deep ; about 20 feet wide ; river easily forded ; 

camp on other side about half a mile ; plenty of wood ; grass pretty good 

Maple river ; 1 to 2 feet deep ; 10 to 15 feet wide ; good ford ; plenty of grass 

and wood ; no wood or wafer between Sheyenne and Maple rivers ; level 

prairie from Fort Abercrombie 

Small stream, branch of Jiaple river ; grass ; no wood 

Maple river, second crossing; pools of water in river bed ; tolerable grass ; no 



Miles. 
4 



Small lake, about 8 miles from second crossing of Sheyenne river ; water and 
grass ; no wood ; low country, -ivith marshy pools, (all dry this year ;) grass, 
but no water or wood since leaving JIaple river 

Sheyenne river, second crossing ; 20 to 25 feet wide ; very little water ; easily 
forded ; pi-etty good water and grass ; plenty of wood ; passed some small 
lakes with good water ; prairie rolling 

Small lake: grass and water ; no wood; numerous small lakes and marshes, 
with good feed since leaving Sheyenne river ; rolling i)rairie 

Small pond ; poor water ; grass ; no wood ; prairie undulating 

Lakes Lydia and Jessie ; water slightly saline ; spring quarter of a mile south- 
west of camp in ravine on shore of Lake Lydia ; good grass, and abundance 
of wood ; rolling prairie 

" Stevens's Great Slough ;" 300 to 400 feet wide: easily crossed this year ; in 
a wet season must be difficult to pass with wagons; " Bartlett's" spring on 
south side of slough about 40 rods west of crossing 

Lake "Dibb;" small lake, almost circular; water slightly saline ; good grass ; 
no wood 

Small lake : good water and grass ; no wood ; rolling prairie, with many ponds 
and marshes between this and Lake Dibb 

Lake Townseud ; water a little saline ; good grass ; rolling prairie 

Small stream, branch of Riviere a Jacques ; dry this year 

Small lake ; water pretty good ; grass ; no wood 

Riviere a Jactjues, or James river ; water and grass ; no wood ; from last camp 
to Riviere a Jacques are several marshes with water and grass, and plenty 
of buffalo chips, (dried manure;) prairie undulating. The route does not 
cross the river, but follows its course round the Lend on the north side 

Small pool ; good water ; grass excellent ; no wood ; road over fine level 



" Trinity " lake — three small lakes united ; good water and grass ; no wood ; 
pi'airie undulating 

Sheyenne river, third crossing; bed of river almost dry; easily crossed; good 
grass ; no wood 

Small lake near Butte de Morale ; water slightly saline ; grass ; no wood ; road 
passes to north of Butte de Morale - 

Basswood " Island," so called; high bluffs surrounded by low land;_ excellent 
grass; fine water in spring at" foot of hill; wood in coiilesnear; chain of 

. lakes extending to north almost to Mouse river, known as " Whitewood lakes.'' 

Small lake ; water pretty go(j,l ; grass ; no wood ; plenty of buffalo chips ; road 
over rolling prairie, passing " Whitewood lakes." - 

Wintering river ; 200 to 300 feet wide; bed almost dry; forded without diffi- 
culty this year, but crossing must be bad in wet seasons from miry bottom ; 
no wood ; buffalo chips 

Small pond ; grass and water ; no wood ; hilly country, with small ponds, 
mostly dry 

Small stream, tributary of Mouse river ; water ; plenty of grass and buffalo 
chips; no wood: good grass from Wintering river; prairie level with ponds 
and marshes. The route is now along a level plateau overlooking the valley 
of Mouse river, keeping from 2 to 5 miles from that stream to avoid coul6s 
running down from Coteau du Missouri 

Coule ; good spring; excellent grass; plenty of timber; tine camp; passed 
several coules running down to Mouse river ; most of them have timber, 
grass, and water 

Coule, with spring, good grass, and a little wood 

Coule; very deep; spring dry. but got water by digging a well: good grass ; 
no wood ; passed several coules with grass, water, and some timber ; road 
over a high level prairie 



Miles. 
4 



15* 
5 



4i 



Hi 
5i 
4 
2i 



13* 

12 

9 

17 
10 



38 EXPEDITION OF CAPT. FISK TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 
Itinerary oj route from Fort Ahercromhie to Fort Benton — Continued. 





d 


Date. 


c 




o 




o 




o 
'A 


Aug. 2 


32 


3 


33 


3 


34 


4 


35 


4 


36 


5 


37 


5 


38 


6 


39 


7 


40 


7 


41 


8 


42 


8 


43 


10 


44 


11 


45 


11 


46 


12 


47 


12 


48 


13 


49 


14 


50 


15 


51 


17 


52 


17 


53 


18 


54 


18 


55 


19 


56 


19 


57 


20 


58 


20 


59 


21 


60 


21 


61 


21 


62 


22 


63 


22 


64 


24 


65 


24 


66 



a 03 

Is 



Small lake ; water saline ; grass ; no wood ; high level prairie 

Small pond : good grass ; no wood 

Small lake ; good water and grass; no wood; buifalo chips plentiful. Two 
other lakes adjoining, (saline ;) high, level prairie 

Small lake; water and grass; no wood; passed several lakes, (di'y;) route 
near hills of C6teau du Missouri 

Three small lakes ; grass and water ; no wood ; Riviere des Lacs, 4 or 5 miles 
to the north ; bed of river dry this s -ason : prairie rolling 

Mount "Freniere," (part of the Coteau du Missouri;) lofty hill; good land- 
mark; several lakes around the mountain, with good water aud grass ; no 
wood ; country rolling, but road fair 

Small pond ; water poor ; grass good ; no wood ; route through coteau, hilly 
but good 

Spring in coule, foot of Coteau du Missouri, latitude 48° 44'; good water and 
grass ; timber in coules rear ; country rolling, but road tolerable 

S]iriug; tolerable grass ; no wood; route a little north of "coteau ;" lake 2 or 
3 miles to north of road 

Coule; poor grass; no water; no wood ; prairie tolerably level 

Small stream, tributary of "White Earth river," almost dry; little water in 
pool; grass; no wood; road over rolling country north of "coteau." , 

Coule, with dry pool; dug wells; water good; grass pretty good ; no wood ; 
prairie more level , 

Spring, in dry pool; good water and grass; uo wood ; passed several ponds, 
all dry ; route enters a chain of mountains running north, supposed to be a 
spur of Coteau du Missouri 

Small lake ; good water and grass ; no wood; road through mountains ; travel- 
ling good in the valleys 

Spring ; water and grass ; no wood; passed several saline lakes, all dry 

Marsh; good water in springs; grass; no wood; chain of saline lakes (dry) 
between last camp and this place; road hilly 

Lake ; water slightly saline ; gi'ass tolerable ; no wood ; lofty and steep moun- 
tain 1 J mile to north of lake; landmark for many miles; named it "Mount 
Fisk;" figure of an elk cut on the summit; Sioux name, " Harakso Weran.". 

Spring; about half a mile south of lake, (last camp;) good water; excellent 
grass ; no wood in coules near 

Head of Big Muddy river; excellent springs; grass good; timber in coules; 
mountains very lofty ; road through valleys good - 

"Antelope creek;" water a little saline; grass; no wood; found bituminous 
coal in channel of this stream ; course west ; fair road through valleys 

Small pool; fair water; good spring near ; grass; no wood; good road through 
valleys ; mountains not so precipitous as in last two days' travel ; coijrse a 
little south of west .- 

Porcupine river ; 15 to 20 feet wide, 3 to 5 feet deep ; ford good, gravelly bottom; 
water excellent ; grass very good and fresh ; no wood. The bed of this river 
was nearly full of water, showing recent heavy rains 

Small river, (branch of "Porcupine;") easily forded. This stream a short 
distance above divides into three forks, running from NW., W. aud W.SW; 
good water and grass; uo wood; road over hills good; course W.SW. 
Prairie burnt between Porcupine river and here 

Small stream ; good water and grass; no wood; about 7 miles from last camp 
on this river, found bituminous coal; seam cropped out on bluff 10 to 15 feet 
in thickness ; coal burnt well 

.Spring; grass; no wood; course west, along wide valley, with running stream 
and good grass 

Small river; 15 to 20 feet wide, and 2 to 3 feet deep ; grass; no wood; course 
a little south of west ; route through valley 

Headwaters of Porcupine river ; excelle::t water and grass ; timber in coules; 
road along valley ; west course 

Small stream, nearly dry; good water and grass; no wood. Left elevated pla- 
teau on which we had been travelling; r;';ul over rather rough, hilly country. 

Little Porcupine river; 15 feet wide, 2 to 3 ieet deep ; good grass aud water ; 
no wood 

Little Porcupine river ; gi'ass and water ; no wood 

Little Porcupine river ; excellent grass and water ; uo wood 

Small stream; good gi'ass and water; no wood ; route through mountain 

Frenchman's fork of Milk river; 50 to 100 feet wide; bed of river almost dry ; 
water in pools ; high banks of sand aud whitish clay ; plenty of cotton trees 
in hollow; poor grass ; mountains near, lofty and precipitous ; road through 
ravine over rough and very broken country 

Prenchmau's fork ; tolerable grass and water ; no wood ; road through coules 
rough; some grading required ; course southwest 

Frenchman's fork ; good spring in ravine about 2 miles west ; grass ; plenty of 
wood ; route over rough, hilly country 



Miles. 

"9 

9 

15 

6 

10 
6 



Miles. 



124- 



6 
lOi 



m 

9i 



9i 
5i 

13 

9i 
8J 

13 

121- 



3 

5i 
6i 
11 



5i 



EXPEDITION OF CAPT. FISK TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 3^ 
Itinerary of route from Fort Ahercrombie to Fort Benton — Continued. 



Aug. 25 



26 


68 


26 


69 


27 


70 


27 


71 


28 


72 


28 


73 


29 


74 


29 


75 


31 


76 


31 


' 77 


31 


78 


Sept. 1 


79 


2 


80 


2 


81 


2 


82 


3 


83 


3 


84 


4 


85 


4 


86 


5 


87 


6 


88 



Milk river ; about 150 feet wide ; bed nearly dry ; easily forded ; tolerable 

water in pools ; grass poor; plenty of Cottonwood ; crossed the river a little 

west of its junction with Frenchman's fork; road over rough hills ; "Little 

Rocky " and "Bear's Paw " mountains discernible to southwest 

Small lake, (dry ;) no water or wood ; grass pretty good ; road excellent. 

Struck last year's traU 2i to 3 miles from camp 

Spring, about 3 miles north of road ; excellent water ; good grass ; no wood ; 

left road in search of water 

Second crossing of Milk river ; ford good with hard gravelly bottom ; poor 

grass ; wood abundant ; fine road over rolling prairie 

Milk river ; poor water and grass ; wood 

Milk river ; di'y poud near ; pretty good grass and water; wood 

Milk river ; poor grass ; wood and « ater abundant ; road in the bottom 

Spring; good water; excellent grass; wood near on Milk river; good level 

road in the bottom near river ; crossed two small streams, (dry) 

Milk river ; pretty good grass, water, and wood ; crossed small stream (almost 

dry) near last camp ; gi'ass and timber ; rough and broken hills to north 

Small dry stream ; poor grass ; wood , 

Milk river ; poor grass and water ; wood 

"Two Lances" river; little water in pools; poor gi'ass ; plenty of wood; 

crossed " Omuk-pa-pasha." or "Meldrum" river, nearly dry; prairie more 

rolling, ground firmer ; Little Rocky mountains to south 

Milk river ; good water, grass, and wood; crossed small stream (dry) about 2 

miles from last camp ; excellent grass and line timber near ; road leaves the 

bottom here 

Milk river, third crossing ; good ford ; road over rolling prairie 

Milk river ; good water, grass and wood ; road leaves the river in a southwest 

direction 

Beaver creek ; good water, grass, and wood 

Box Alder creek; water, grass, and wood. No water or grass between Beaver 

and Box Alder creeks ; good road 

Box Alder creek ; camp near creek; water, grass, and wood; passed Bear's 

Paw mountains 

Big Sandy river ; water and grass ; uo wood 

Spring ; poor water ; pretty good grass ; no wood ; excellent road over high 

prairie, but no water between ' ' Big Sandy "and this camji 

Maria's river ; good water, grass, and wood ; road over high rolling prairie to 

the bluff; descent to the valley very steep ; tine valley, good camp 

Teton river ; water, grass, and wood ; route follows valley of Maria's river 

about one mile to the Teton; and then passes through the valley of that 

stream to last camp ; ilistance to Fort Benton, 4 miles 



11 

6 

10} 

8f 
6* 
8i 



lOi 
8 
3i 



U 



19J 

15 



22J 



22i 
10 



16J 

25* 
13 



Distance from Fort Abercrombie to Fort Benton, 825 mUes. 



Official copy; 



W. A. NICHOLS, 

Assistant Adjutant General. 



to 



^ 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 

'III! I III III l|!i!l|ii|i n 



016 085 452 2 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



016 085 452 2 • 



